The keel of my CP16 has severe cracks, I believe from water freezing in it over the winter. There are 3-point cracks on both sides and a long crack (over a foot long) along the bottom of the keel. The starboard cracks and the long crack along the bottom are open about 1/4" to 1/2", but can be easily pushed back against the concrete. Here's a link to some pictures of the damage:
http://home.comcast.net/~schwartz_r/site/?/page/CP16_Keel/&PHPSESSID=e10397d34923e5b7eba8f845daa0f165 (http://home.comcast.net/~schwartz_r/site/?/page/CP16_Keel/&PHPSESSID=e10397d34923e5b7eba8f845daa0f165)
I was going to remove all of the loose fiberglass and essentially reglass the entire forward section of the keel, using the concrete ballast as the backing. But a friend told me that I should leave the fiberglass in place, open and taper the cracks, lightly clamp it to hold the existing pieces in place, and then fill the cracks with fiberglass. I've never done glasswork on anything this severe, so I'm not sure what is best. I'm looking for any advice I can get!
Thanks,
Rich
Here, this is what I would do ......
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/boa/1823075054.html
Just kidding. That looks like quite a project. I hate to see these babies in bad shape, but once you pull that off, there won't be too much you can't do.
Billy
Rich,
I have done some fiberglass, what is your time worth right now...If you are unemployed and don't mind being on your back for a while it needs to 1. Dry completely (which will require 6 weeks with no moisture coming in from above.) 2. delaminated glass cut out (with a grinder or saw)and sanding with a bevel towards the good glass 3. Epoxy or glassed back with multiple layers and 4. Faired out and then 5. repainted. This is a 100 plus hour job-
Can you make more that 20 dollars an hour someplace else? If so, it may make sense to salvage the boat for parts and buy another one...
Rich, I would cut away the large loose part of the glass that is sticking out.
Grind all the large cracks open, this will help the concrete to dry.
Also grind through the gellcoat on the keel up to the hull and the same for the front and two foot aft of the crack.
It would be a good idea to keep a brace under the ballast, there is not much holding it in the boat.
This will be a dirty job and one day of grinding using a body grinder with about a 24 grit disk.
After the concrete is dry, cover the ground area with a single piece of mat wrapping around the front of the keel, followed by
a layer of woven roven then a layer of mat stretching about six inches past the roven.
This will take about a day, have all the panels pre cut and wet out on a sheet of plywood.
I would use epoxy resin for this repair, it cost more but will adhere better than polyester resin. It is also not as sensitive to moisture.
From this point you can decide how much time you would like to spend.
Structurally you are finished, the rest is about faring and could be done at a later date or to what ever the time you want to spend.
Good Luck
David
Thanks Breeze. Actually, I took a very similar approach to what you have suggested. I cut away the loose glass on the starboard side and rebuilt it using Marine-Tex epoxy. On the port side I just ground and feathered the cracks and filled them with just the Marine-Tex. Splashing it for the first time this weekend! We'll see how it holds up!
Rich