So I tried the ones with the suction cups, tried a few other ones nothing worked. But this evening I found what works best.....
A ROLL OF DUCT TAPE!!!!
seriously, it really does work!
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/1de0929a619a0cb8da587b0e645ee6950_m.jpg)
This teak organizer works pretty good and is also a handle to lift the fuel tank cover straight up. Handy for binoculars as well and a storage place for a knife...just in case. Oh and a beverage holder too. It's about $25 from West Marine and I stopped at ACE hardware and bought 4 of those 1/4" fasteners with a wood screw on one end and a machine screw at the other end. A dot of paint on the machine screw ends and a touch of them on the fiberglass cover places the holes for drilling. Then drill. Then a flat washer, split ring and a brass acorn nut inside the cover, and she finished off very nicely. Nothing to rip a hole in skin or rub a hole into a plastic fuel tank.
skip.
Thank's Skip, this is my day for gleaning ideas to solve problems. I've been wanting to put two three gallon tanks in the fuel storage area side by side with the long dimension oriented fore and aft. Because of the handles on the long dimension it is about 2.5 inches too long for the cover. But if I cut out the grp the width of the two handles and replaced with a teak bump out that would allow room for the handles below and some cup and storage holders above, that would work nicely and have a nice finished look.
My other options were to replace the cover with a hinged teak cover and leave it open in the center so the tank handles could stick out. Or cut the cover and frame the cut edge with teak and let the handles stick out.
Would those collapsible five gallon 'square' water containers for camping conform to the shape under the fuel tank cover?
Polypropylene would not like gas sitting on it? I don't know. Why not build a fuel tank to 'just' fit in the hole?
Dad built one for his boat out of clear plastic sheets about 3/8" thick sheets, saber sawed cut and sanded then glued together. I think it was about 80 gallon. Don't need a fuel gauge.
Just remember sticking out past the regular end of the fuel tank cover may impede your comfort zone in the cockpit. And when the notch is cut in the front end that may weaken the 'bridge effect' where some day you may sit or stand to reach something over the side. These are small boats.
skip.
A six gallon metal tank fits perfectly - of course they rust out after a few years - I have at least 8 on my current one. I've recently acquired a three gallon plastic tank to use for our day trips and plan to keep the 6 gal for the longer cruises if we are ever so fortunate to take. West Marine has a plastic 6 gal tank for Mercury motors and I thing you can order one from Evinrude - both are expensive. Matt
Another example but made of starboard located on the fuel compartment locker door.
Has small rectangular storage box with el-cheapo wal-mart can holders. Got it from Cabella's, think it was $60 or so.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z290/yamaholic_mcarp/Island%20Time/cupholder.gif)if[/img]
Stern rail seat with cupholders (Beckson can holder inserts not shown). From Compac factory.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z290/yamaholic_mcarp/Island%20Time/DSC01425.jpg)
Quote from: Salty19 on April 27, 2010, 09:48:56 PM
Another example but made of starboard located on the fuel compartment locker door.
Has small rectangular storage box with el-cheapo wal-mart can holders. Got it from Cabella's, think it was $60 or so.
Salty,
Nicely done. Is that a custom stern pulpit. If so, do you weld? SS is hard to weld, so I hear anyway.
Curtis
Hi Curtis-
The pulpits/seats were a not-on-the-options-list factory custom install. You would have to contact Hutchins to see if they can either provide specifications or supply the parts for you.
There should be a few 23's and larger built with stern rails seats from the factory, so perhaps Hutchins can hook you up. Only potential problem I can see is cost and bolt hole pattern mismatches vs. the original pulpit.
I used the seats quite a bit yesterday in steady 8-10 knot breezes. Really gives a nice view and makes you feel like a captain, but I would only use them in good conditions. One of the benefits was a bit better view of coming black water/gusts. It also helped me track my hat that had gone overboard (but alas did sink to the depths!).
A tiller extension is somewhat mandatory to steer from up there.
Quote from: Salty19 on May 17, 2010, 10:16:50 AM
Hi Curtis-
The pulpits/seats were a not-on-the-options-list factory custom install. You would have to contact Hutchins to see if they can either provide specifications or supply the parts for you.
There should be a few 23's and larger built with stern rails seats from the factory, so perhaps Hutchins can hook you up. Only potential problem I can see is cost and bolt hole pattern mismatches vs. the original pulpit.
I used the seats quite a bit yesterday in steady 8-10 knot breezes. Really gives a nice view and makes you feel like a captain, but I would only use them in good conditions. One of the benefits was a bit better view of coming black water/gusts. It also helped me track my hat that had gone overboard (but alas did sink to the depths!).
A tiller extension is somewhat mandatory to steer from up there.
Salty,
I'm more interested in getting a solar panel mount for larger panels. I've been given a referal to the same local guy from two people. He does a lot of custom truck racks for lumber (or whatever - more people seem to use them for truck top boats like sunfish than lumber around here - I'm confident my dentist doesn't haul much lumber to the beach). Most of his work is in anodized aluminum but I think aluminum is harder to weld (though easier to cut and debur or polish) than SS, so I'm hoping he can do SS. I may be wrong since I don't weld.
btw - I think a tiller tamer or cansail or equivalent would be a better choice than a tiller extension. Just relax and wait to run aground (OK - I'll admit that I've actually done that - but I was very relaxed for a while and it was just sand).
Curtis
Cupholders on sailboats?
Ok, maybe past the 30' range.
Face it, we are just overgrown dinghy sailing.
I'll try the duct tape idea and see how it goes.
Besides, duct tape fixes almost everything.
On the other hand, that cute co-ed down the street would make a great cupholder.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/1de0929a619a0cb8da587b0e645ee695-2.jpg)
Not only a swell cup holder but a binocular and cell phone or any nick knacks. And this teak holder from West Marine also is a great handle to lift the cover off from above the fuel tank.
I bought 4 of those fasteners with a wood screw on one end and a machone screw on the other end. Once the wood screw was in the 'cup holder' I dabbed four dot of paint onto the machine screws and gently and accurately placed the holder onto the fiberglass, leaving a tell tail as to where to drill the glass and screw 'em on with brass acorn nuts and flat washers. Oh and also I drilled four holes in the back of the shelvf to let the rain water or splash out. Hit her with a little Cetol.
And it's generally out of the way when sailing. Depends on who's holding her cup.
skip.
I looked at those at WM. They are about $35. Another day another dollar.
But I do like the set up.
Salty's is nice too. Love the cat seats! I do think it might be better to but the cup hold on top instead of in front, as you cannot sit there due to the tiller, and foot room is somewhat limited. But for now....Duct Tape
Quote from: Caboose on August 09, 2010, 04:50:30 PM
Cupholders on sailboats?
Ok, maybe past the 30' range.
Face it, we are just overgrown dinghy sailing.
I'll try the duct tape idea and see how it goes.
Besides, duct tape fixes almost everything.
On the other hand, that cute co-ed down the street would make a great cupholder.
Ran your idea by the Admiral - she said it was fine as long as I understood it would cost me 50% of everything I own. Need pic's of coed to decide.
Mike
Mike:
Forget the coed idea...too costly and she probably talks too much. I like Skips cup holder but, being a builder/carpenter, I'll make my own from whatever scrape wood I have lying around. Should take all of 1/2 hour. But I prefer my binocs forward a bit...keeps the salt spray away from 'em.
Maybe I'll post a photo. JK!
Bob23
Taking this a bit off topic, has anyone tried to or considered putting hinges on the back of the fuel locker cover so that it pivots up rather than coming straight up, loose. Mine is a major PITA as it binds when trying to raise it if it gets out of perfect plumb during the process. Would have to take the teak guides off, but I'm considering it.
Bob23 raised our expectations with:
Maybe I'll post a photo.
Fat chance :)
Brack-
I've not seen that mentioned before, but I like the idea.
Since you're a woodworker, a custom cover with hinges would be a great project. That cover is #$*$ heavy on the 19's..wood is lighter and perhaps would be easier to deal with save varnishing.
As skip mentioned having the cupholder makes it easier to pull the cover off. I just grab the cup holder assembly, or the lanyard I tied to it with my right hand and the bottom vertical piece with left hand...lift straight off. Less awkward. I like it on top so my legs aren't hitting it. No one can sit in that spot anyway.
I agree PITA to lift. but the teak guides look to good to just remove. I'm not so sure that is a good idea though. Here is why. The weight is supported by being wedged into place (like a nail). If you remove the guides, and add hinges the weight will then be supported by the hinges and nothing will keep it from slipping forward except the hinges. I stand on mine often, and I'm not sure it would support my beaming girth.
But, it is a pain to raise and lower.
Salty, I've considered that (custom teak hinged cover) and it may become a winter woodworking project(yes Admiral, I've not forgotten the dining room furniture). I think a little more teak and a little less weight on the tail would be a good thing.
Billy, the cover is level and the down force is supported at the lip on the back and both sides, the force forward even if you stand on it should be minor, a couple of heavy SS hinges or a piano hinge should hold fine. Now getting to the nuts on the back side might be an issue. Let's see, the Admiral is fairly small......:)
Yea, I forgot about the lips at the sides and back. sorry
I did see a 23 a while back that had speakers installed there. I think it was on sailfar.net. If he can get back there to install the speakers.
Also I know the new picnic cats have a teak step.
http://www.com-pacyachts.com/trailerable-catboats/picnic-cat-photogallery.html
check image 1 of 12
"Taking this a bit off topic, has anyone tried to or considered putting hinges on the back of the fuel locker cover so that it pivots up rather than coming straight up, loose."
Of course I don't like that hinge idea. What...I take that hatch/cover over the fuel tank up three times a season. And that also means drilling HOLES into the fiberglass. I don't like that.
Bolting the organizer on the fuel tank drop-down cover allows for a nice handle to lift the cover up, out, and away. Also something to hang on to when scrubbing the cover up and then dipping it into the drink.
skip.
Quote from: skip on August 10, 2010, 05:30:55 PM
"Taking this a bit off topic, has anyone tried to or considered putting hinges on the back of the fuel locker cover so that it pivots up rather than coming straight up, loose."
Of course I don't like that hinge idea. What...I take that hatch/cover over the fuel tank up three times a season.
skip.
Well that would be nice, but I access much more often. Keep the fuel bulb under there to avoid continuous UV exposure. I have two tanks, and when using the smaller, manual vent tank (which I prefer), I close the vent when not in use. My motor starter quick disconnect is under there and I have to use it every time I launch or retrieve for a tow. Essentially, I'm in there at least twice every time I sail or tow.
As mentioned, a little more teak, a little less tail weight, easier and quicker, one handed access, all desireable things with no real negatives. A little winter wood shop work with teak, something I enjoy. It will probably make the list this winter. And to take this back on topic, I'll probably try to incorporate cup holders when I do.
Last year my thoughts were to build it with a step so that two 3 gal tanks could fit with the long dimension parallel to the centerline of the boat. Step necessary because the tanks are too long and without a drop down step the length of the cover would interfere with the side hatch opening. However, bought a Bombardier 6 gal instead so that is not necessary.
Sounds like a great plan to me. Maybe cupholders on top and small tray on the foreward vertical edge (for holding charts, small radios, etc)?
May as well create as much useful and out of the way storage as possible!
Quote from: Salty19 on August 11, 2010, 12:39:31 PM
Sounds like a great plan to me. Maybe cupholders on top and small tray on the foreward vertical edge (for holding charts, small radios, etc)?
May as well create as much useful and out of the way storage as possible!
Good ideas. Maybe a couple of brackets on the front edge that would support a cantilevered cockpit table.
Brackish,
Now you're talking!
Best cup holder I have ever found was my right hand!
Capt'n Jim
Quote from: jimyoung on August 13, 2010, 01:27:15 PM
Best cup holder I have ever found was my right hand!
Capt'n Jim
+1 Capt'n Jim!
In a pinch when I need to use both hands, like openinga bottle of wine, I sometimes set a cup on the floor between my feet.
I looked for that teak drink / binocular holder that Skip found at WM. It wasn't in stock but they had a similar design in a hard plastic - on sale for $29 . . . I like the looks of wood but this was in stock, I like the rounded corners and it fits drink coozies!
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/MoodusCoconut/78196300.jpg)
http://marinco.com/product/four-drinkbinocular-rack-white-poly
We liked the idea of of the cup/binocular holder attached to the fuel tank cover/seat. We built a quick one out of some scrap mahogany and hardwood dowels with the intention of fastening it within the cockpit. We used it several times and found that it was really convenient to be able to move it around the cockpit to wherever you needed it. It never moved even at 20 degrees of heel. So, we decided to use contact glue and attach some non-skid green material to the base of it and leave it free to roam about the boat. We also take it into the cabin at night to hold our drinks upright. Total cost: $2.00?
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/DSC027801280x960.jpg)
The small rectangular opening in the front is for our handheld VHF.
Mike and B
Now that's pretty! And the price is rights
BobL
OK - I like it - I have lost too many "beverages" due to spills - I have scrap mahogany laying around the shop - Please give me dims for the cup holder and what "green" material did you use?
Here are a couple pic's to give you the dimensions I used. I don't think you can go wrong making it whatever size suits your needs. I simply took our VHF, Binoculars and 2 Kwik-Trip mugs to use for sizing the openings. A hole saw and a router makes a quick easy project. The green non-skid pad we glued to the base is available at any big box or hardware store. It is a shelf liner designed to keep plates from moving around. The brand name I had was Wonder-Liner, but there are lots of similar ones available.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0038.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0032.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0034.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0037.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0036.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0035.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/100_0039.jpg)
Have fun.
Mike