I started on a homemade roller furler this week. My goal was to create a design that anybody with a hacksaw and drill could make without spending a bunch of cash. I searched this site as well as several web sites for ideas. Surprisingly, I found very few examples with any details available. There were some good ideas to work from, but none would satisfy my goal of simplicity of construction.
I sketched out a couple sheets for reference and started building a prototype. The images below show some of the basics. Sorry for the poor sketches. (No CAD drawings - just Etch-A-Sketches here) I did a big box lumber store (Menards and Home Depot) parts run and found everything I needed for about $20. I did make the design a little big for my CP-16 because I would like to use it on the 19 footer when I find one.
The one item I am still looking to upgrade is the Lazy Susan bearing. It does work perfectly for this prototype, but I'd like something stainless or similar so it could be used around salt water. A little grease and I am sure this one would survive for 3-4 years in my freshwater lakes, but why not look for something that would work for more people.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/RollerFurler001.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furlersketch2.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/009.jpg)
Mike
Any ideas, suggestions or details of one you have already built?
Looks great, but can not read the detail of the construction.........................Phil
mike, wonderful engineering. i made my furler drum out of aluminum with a 1 inch pvc foil. i can send pics if you want. i imagine a 19 may need bearings but on the 16 it isnt necessary. john j and i have the same furler and we have had no problems. cant wait to see the finished product
Nies - Sorry about the poor quality of the pic's. The scanner is down and I thought using the camera would be good enough. How can I be wrong so many times in one lifetime? I'll remove the pic's later and replace them with decent ones when the scanner comes back to life. Unfortunately you'll still be stuck with my amateur drawings and unbelievably bad handwriting. Throughout high school and college my teachers routinely suggested I take up typing.
Kickingbug - We'd love to see pic's of your homemade furler. Anybody else who has made one could/should add a description and pic's to this topic so others (me) can steal their ideas.
There are a few more pics on the photobucket site below.
Mike
Mike, no reason to be sorry, I can't even get a picture on yet, probably because I don't have a camera, waiting for my youngest son to show up to help the old man...................Phil
Hey Mike, thanks for doing this. I hope to learn from your experience and copy the final design. Copying IS supposed to be the highest form of flattery right? So, there ya go.
I've seen pictures of a couple homemade furlers and thought it a good way to save some money and ease the working of the jib (single handed). I just wasn't satisfied with the, shall I say, somewhat rough looks of the final product. I'm sure they served well in the function they were meant for. I don't mean to demean them at all. I just would like something with a better appearance for my sweet little boat, if you know what I mean. Your version looks to have a better overall look and finish then most and I'll be following progress with great interest. I would love to see it mounted on your boat when completed.
I hope I haven't offended anyone else who've built their own furlers by any of this. I'm pretty sure I haven't seen all the previous builds and no doubt there are some good ones I haven't seen. I'm just liking this one so far.
mel
A PVC furler. Who would have thought that would work. Makes me wonder why the better furler bases are made of titanium alloy instead of just plain aluminum. Then again they do cost more than $20.
Let us know how is works next season. It might be fine, and if not the risk is losing $20.
Curtis
I've got a pvc furler on my MFG Sidewinder 16, and it works fine. Beginning to wish I had one on this compac.
It depends on the boat and what conditions you are sailing in.
I've been on larger boats where you have to winch the furler.
On my CP23 you do need to put a little muscle into the furler line as the wind picks up. In my first season with a ProFurl I had a few jambs due to my install not being quite right. One memerable jamb happenned at 25 knots in 5 foot waves 15 miles or so off shore. I was a bit hesitant to go on the foredeck but I had to clear it. Sailing in a front that brought NW winds saved me from a 60 mile leg to windward (SW) by making it a beam reach so it was worth it.
Since the first season I moved the block closest to the furler and haven't had jamb problems since. I've sailed in up to 35 knots and at that wind speed I wouldn't want to be furling with a PVC drum.
Your CP16 headsail is a lot smaller than a CP23 headsail and in a CP16 you probably don't plan to go out in 25-35 knots. You'd be crazy to spend $1,000 on a high end furler, and I might a little wreckless if I went out in the Atlantic with a homemade PVC furler.
Like I said, it depends on the boat and what conditions you sail in. I'm a little more concerned about people with CP23 that try this, but if its used in inland water even if it broke the risk may not be all that high.
Curtis
Since the Compac is my first "real sailboat" I think I'm gonna sail her the way she came for a couple of seasons and learn to use the the equipment the way it's rigged, and then decide what modifications I want to do.
Quote from: curtisv on February 28, 2010, 10:31:52 PM
It depends on the boat and what conditions you are sailing in.
I've been on larger boats where you have to winch the furler.
On my CP23 you do need to put a little muscle into the furler line as the wind picks up. In my first season with a ProFurl I had a few jambs due to my install not being quite right. One memerable jamb happenned at 25 knots in 5 foot waves 15 miles or so off shore. I was a bit hesitant to go on the foredeck but I had to clear it. Sailing in a front that brought NW winds saved me from a 60 mile leg to windward (SW) by making it a beam reach so it was worth it.
Since the first season I moved the block closest to the furler and haven't had jamb problems since. I've sailed in up to 35 knots and at that wind speed I wouldn't want to be furling with a PVC drum.
Your CP16 headsail is a lot smaller than a CP23 headsail and in a CP16 you probably don't plan to go out in 25-35 knots. You'd be crazy to spend $1,000 on a high end furler, and I might a little wreckless if I went out in the Atlantic with a homemade PVC furler.
Like I said, it depends on the boat and what conditions you sail in. I'm a little more concerned about people with CP23 that try this, but if its used in inland water even if it broke the risk may not be all that high.
Curtis
I agree completely. I am doing this as a fun project intended for a boat under 20' that sails recreationally on inland lakes. Racers, bigger boats, and bluewater cruisers would be crazy to try and save money on essential equipment. I am in no way guaranteeing the safe construction or use of this furler.
That said, I don't see any reason a homemade device such as this can't be considered as a cost effective alternative for the right boat. I enjoy tinkering, designing and building things and usually they end up being somewhat functional and reasonably cost effective. Hopefully this project will end up with the same results.
Mike
mike i will e mail the step by step pics hope they help. i have made three so far and they all work perfectly, dont slow rigging time and still look good.
Kickingbug,
Thanks Buddy! I am having second thoughts about posting this project. I posted it because I thought other like minded people would find it interesting. If by posting it I am misleading someone into doing something unsafe then I should remove it and just build it privately.
Mike
What can I say? First a sweet rudder and now this amazing homemade furler. Very, very nice!
Personal opinion? It will be more than fine on your 16 and should work well, for as mentioned lake sailing.
You asked for some descriptions of furlers. You've got the base looking better than any other homemade unit I've seen so no comments there 'cept nice work.
The furler "spar" itself is now the challenge. You have several options. What most people did was mount the drum just above the turnbuckle, then cut/fit PVC sections that are spaced for the hanks with connectors in between. From here people have deviated. Some cut notches for the hanks to slip in and catch on the forestay, using a long piece of PVC (and perhaps a connector). Some removed the hanks , cut/sliced PVC into sections from grommet to grommet (whre hanks were) with the connector as the strenght point for tie-wraps. I did this but drilled a small hole in the connector just before gluing each sectio, put a knot in 1/8 Amsteel line (2400lb strenght!), ran it from the inside of the connector out and used that to tie the sail off and hold it's alignment (and used tie wraps for good measure). And you have to tie off the ends of the sail to properly stretch it.
Another option is to use a single aluminum spar cut to size and bolted to the drum. Perhaps notch it for the hanks. That's the direction I'm leaning anyway.
If you do use PVC, be careful not to over induldge on the glue. Too much weakens the PVC.
Good luck!!
Greene
Keep the post and follow up. That is what this site is about, sharing ideas. Don't worry about misleading any one as we all need to be responsible for our own actions, i.e. read, evaluate and then decide for ourselves if we want to make use of information provided by others. For myself I see no need for furlers on boats but I do enjoy seeing ideas like yours. And yes I have worked the foredeck with water coming aboard.
Melvin
Quote from: Greene on March 01, 2010, 01:31:28 PM
Kickingbug,
Thanks Buddy! I am having second thoughts about posting this project. I posted it because I thought other like minded people would find it interesting. If by posting it I am misleading someone into doing something unsafe then I should remove it and just build it privately.
Mike
Don't take things wrong. Its an interesting project and other before you have don't similar furlers and used them safely.
It won't work for everyone. AFAIK there are only a few people that sail a small CP as a light coastal cruiser or somewhere like Lake Michigan where this would be a problem so its of interest to the majority of CP sailors.
BTW- CapnK used to be one of the Com-pac light coast cruising sailors on his CP23D Liquid Epifany (did I spell that right?).
Curtis
Quote from: rwdsr on February 28, 2010, 09:34:09 PM
I've got a pvc furler on my MFG Sidewinder 16, and it works fine. Beginning to wish I had one on this compac.
Until I got my CP16 I had an MFG Sidewinder with a roller furler. Simple PVC setup. Worked flawlessly. On the sidewinder, there was a pocket sewed along the leading edge of the jib and it slid right over the PVC foil on the furler. It was then attached by two simple pipe/hose type clamps (one on the top, and one on the bottom) that would be tightened by a screwdriver. That was it. The boat weighs less than 1/5 of a CP16 but I still put it through it's paces without an issue. I'd even routinely use it to reef the jib partway without issue.
I'm looking at setting up an inexpensive PVC or similar system, but am still perplexed at how to attach my jib to the foil (spar) above the furling drum. Any advice about drawbacks to keeping or removing the hanks when attaching the jib. I'd like to avoid permanently altering the jib. Do some of the mentioned methods in this discussions have drawbacks that anyone is aware of. I tend to picture that leaving on the hanks could create points of friction on the furled sail and wear holes or something like that.
Another idea I pictured was that I might remove the hanks, cut holes in the PVC where the grommets are and then attach the headsail to the forestay with heavy duty zip ties . Any other ideas?
Jkat
jkat,
Just about all the methods you mention have been tried and the owners generally seem satisfied with the results. I don't think I would use any of the methods if I had a new (or newer) sail. Since I have an older 155 genoa I don't have any issues with altering the sail, but I am concerned about the potential of wear.
Leave hanks on and attach through slots in PVC - Seems like the simpliest method and the easiest to reverse if you decide you don't like it. The hanks would create a bulge and a wear spot.
Remove the hanks and tie strap through the PVC - Still pretty easy to reverse. Should create less of a wear spot.
Remove the hanks and whip the sail around the PVC - One guy showed this method of using light line to wrap around the PVC and through the hole left from the removed hank. After looping the line around several times he cinched the loops with several wraps of the line. It looked like it would work really well and the appearance should be pretty good.
Remove the hanks and cut a boltrope slot in the PVC - Kickingbug showed me how to do this. It looks like a really effective method. One advantage to this method over the others is that it allows the halyard to stretch the luff without creating scalloping (for lack of a better word) between each of the non-moving connection points in the other systems.
I am sure there are other methods, but these seem to be the most popular.
I hope this helps.
Mike
Greene, I used a new genoa w/o hanks and had the luff cut 12" shorter than standard to accomodate the drum. Otherwise there may not be enough room on the forestay to accomodate everything (measure that). It worked out realy well being able to see under the sail.
If you do remove the hanks and want to put back on later..that is not a big deal. They are cheap.
As I mentioned I used tie wraps (two at each grommet) and use Amsteel blue line knotted on the interior of the PVC and tied around the sail grommet. That way there is no slippage when furling to keep the luff straight. And with three very strong tied per grommet, the sail is not going anywhere.
Sailed it hard enough on several occasions to bury the rail and take water over the coaming. Of course that woulnd't have happened without a foiled rudder.
I also like kicknbug's design. My only concern is chafing the bolt rope area with the sharp PVC edge. I suppose some tough chafe tape or vinyl could be used here.
Definitely don't hesitate to post up your experiments. That's what this forum is all about. If you're nervous...put a disclaimer on it (Use at yor own risk, you are responsible, etc).
Salty19,
Thanks for the input. I planned on pulling the genoa out this weekend to measure the luff. Also, I purchased some 1/4" ID PEX tube to slide over the stay and act as an chafe guard for the PVC foil and any lines, tie straps, rope etc. I end up using.
A couple of questions;
1. You mentioned in your earlier reply to tension the head of the sail. Do you leave your halyard attached with a swivel? Or do you simply tension the head with a line to the foil?
2. Does adding the couplings to the mounting points add strength or do they create a weaker area? I think with a long enough piece of Amsteel I could feed it into a small hole and then push it out the far end of the tube to tie a knot. Once the knot is tied the long end could be pulled back out to get the knot back down to the hole. Cut off the excess and start on the next hole. This would eliminate the couplings to improve the look, but I am not sure about the strength.
I'm busy working on my boat kitty for the 19 footer. For some strange reason the Admiral thinks four boats at one time is too many. Totally unreasonable! Sold my 84 Mazda RX-7 project car, so next I have to look at reducing the powerboat fleet. It sure will be hard to put Puppy Luff up for sale, but it will have to go before I purchase the 19.
Mike
Heya Greene,
Answer to the first question: Salty Parrot used both. Used halyard at the top o' sail and Amsteel line at the base of sail, routed through a "through hole" in the PVC, just above the drum, to stretch sail during use. Then let tension go on the halyard for mooring/trailering.
Second question: I honestly do not know which design is stronger...one would think a solid piece is the best. I used the adapters/couplers/whatever you call them mainly for ease of running the line through to secure the sail, and to allow use of shorter lengths of PVC. I have to admit, I'm a little confused with the line routing you are describing. Must be the yummy Leininkugles...being from WI I'm sure you're familiar with them!
" I have to admit, I'm a little confused with the line routing you are describing. Must be the yummy Leininkugles...being from WI I'm sure you're familiar with them!"
I have only one superpower to wield. Unfortunately it is the amazing ability to befuddle, confuse, disorient and bewilder everyone with my written explanations. If I described how to make a brandy old-fashion sweet to someone they would end up making chocolate milk.
No Lienies for me please, just show me the way to a sweet red wine or a little Drambuie. I drink beer about twice a year and I can usually remember one of them.
Thanks for the info. 50+ degrees all next week here. SWEET!
Mike
mike, with my furler set up, i made the foil out of 1" scedule 40 pvc (one piece no gluing) it is attached to a aluminum drum which fits over the turnbuckle. the hanks are removed from the sail and the boltrope is slid into a groove cut into the pvc. a smaller pvc tube is slid into the larger pvc and pushed up as the sail is pulled into the groove. the sail is stretched and clamped top and bottom. the forestay is slid through the smaller pvc pipe and the turnbuckle reattached. this design is much stronger than those that utilize the hanks. ill send you pics if you want
kickingbug,
Thanks, I saved the e-mail photos you sent me a while back. The 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe you describe was shown as 3/4" PVC in the pic. I'm guessing you were referring to the O.D. being 1". I took another look at one of your photos and now I can see that the halyard wasn't used. Just pre-stretch and attach to the PVC.
Did you have to change the sail size to allow for the furler height? I need to measure my 155 genoa and stay length tonight to see if there is room to install the furler without shortening the sail. (Note: Measured later and found 155 luff at about 12' and the stay length from the top of the turnbuckle to the fitting at the mast is 13')
i also made one for my 135 and it works great too. the turnbuckle fits into the spool keeping the sail low although you can still see under it.
and youre right it was 1"od and 3/4 id
Quote from: kickingbug1 on March 14, 2010, 07:31:12 PM
i also made one for my 135 and it works great too. the turnbuckle fits into the spool keeping the sail low although you can still see under it.
Well as long as you have two you could just give me one and I can forget all this nonsense!
Mike
you will have it
Quote from: kickingbug1 on March 14, 2010, 10:34:25 PM
you will have it
You know I am just kidding right? I can't go through all this fun and not end up with something I build on my own.
Mike
Mike:
If you're bored, I can drop off my 1984 Honda Accord! Always something to fix!
Bob23
Bob23,
As long as you are driving all the way over here to get the Honda fixed, would you stop over in New Hampshire and tow this along?
http://nh.craigslist.org/boa/1636357503.html
Mike
Consider it done! That's a nice 19! Maybe I should sell my 23 and buy it.
Bob23
yeah mike figured you would build your own-----guess i forgot how all cp owners love to create new things for old boats
Mounted the furler for a trial fit yesterday and took a few pic's. It works perfectly except I still wish I could use the halyard to tension the luff. If the halyard is attached it wraps too tightly around the furler/stay and binds things up. I'm still trying to figure out a good swivel system. Most of the other homemades have simply tensioned the luff onto the furler and left the halyard disconnected. On the 16 it probably doesn't make all that much difference anyway. I just used some cheap nylon rope to trial it and it seems to work just fine. I'll need to put better line on it, permanently attach the guide roller on the bow pulpit and trim up the 1/8" Amsteel lines I used to attach the 155 genoa to the 3/4" schedule 40 PVC. The 155 just barely fits on my stay as the luff is within a few inches of the same length as the stay, so I had to keep the furler as low as possible on the bow.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furler002.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furler003.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furler004.jpg)
One other note; I did want to use Kickingbugs method of slotting the 3/4" PVC and then feeding the boltrope into the slot. I found that my 155 luff was a couple feet too long to slot one piece of 10' long PVC, so I had to use a coupling to add some more PVC. It didn't look like it would work very well to slot through the coupling, so I went to Salty19's method of using the 1/8" Amsteel rope.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furler005.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/Com-Pac%2016%20Roller%20Furler/furler001.jpg)
Looks really good! Really like the drum you made--top notch!!!
As for the halyard, I used a swiveling hook/clip gadget, not the traditional halyard retainer. It was already on the boat so dumb luck there. Guess it must have worked because I never noticed the halyard getting wrapped up on itself (or I just didn't notice that it did!!).
However I vote to ditch the halyard and tighten the ends of the luff with zip ties instead, secured by Amsteel for good measure. Just leave it tight and retighten when you notice some play. I think I'm going to recommend that my brother (who bought Salty) ditch the halyard as it's one more thing to worry about and one more thing to troubleshoot should the swivl not behave. As he's never put a hand on a tiller before, keeping it simple for him will be key.
Your boat is going to feel and perform a lot different this year. Can't wait to hear your review of both mods.
very nice job mike. cant say i couldnt have done it better----cause i didnt. as to the jib halyard---took mine down and made a key fob out of the block. kidding aside. cant wait to see it in the flesh. blowing at 30 plus today on carlyle ----i stayed home and fished in the pond (well went to sleep on the dock).
Now, that's the way I like to fish. Supposed to be in the 80's here tomorrow, and I'm off on holiday. Sailing anyone?
I have been reading this post since it started and decided to break out a PVC furler I had built and put on a Macgregor 25 I had about 6-7 years ago. I had built it to see if I even liked roller furling before I spent the money for a CDI. I used the original CP 16 plans off the internet from back then and used 3/4" pipe instead of the 1/2" because of the longer forestay on the Mac. I loved the roller furling and bought a CDI for it that same summer. My Seaward 24 has CDI furling on it so I decided to used the old drum I had built and split 3/4" pipe full length instead of routing couplers for the hanks to attach.
(http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z119/dscobra/DSCN0106.jpg)
I used HPFE plastic for the drum cut circular and drilled for 1" pipe to fit through the plastic. I used 1" couplers above and below to hold the pieces tight to a coupler that became the actual drum in the middle. I reduced the 1" to 3/4" and split the pipe lengthwise with a short jigsaw blade while holding the pipe in an expansion joint in my garage floor.
(http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z119/dscobra/DSCN0107.jpg)
I took the hanks off the sail I had bought this winter on ebay for $50 and cut it and re sewed it to fit the headstay length minus the drum height and the turnbuckle length. I routed a feed gate in the bottom of the pipe to lead the luff rope inside of the pipe. I tied the sail to the drum and to the coupler I used on the top of the furler pipe and know this is sufficient as the CDI tightens the sail the same way and it had worked fine on the Mac.
(http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z119/dscobra/DSCN0109.jpg)
Trying to reduce set up time at the lake is always something I want to achieve and so I think with the addition of a sunbrella cover that uses twist locks and some ball end bungies, I can leave the sail on the furler and not have to tie on a sail before backing in the water.
(http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z119/dscobra/DSCN0113.jpg)
Hopefully the sunbrella and my sewing will withstand highway speeds as well.
The downside to this type of furler is raising the drum and sail up on top of the turnbuckle although it does give you great vision forward with the sail unfurled..
Hopefully, I can give this new addition a workout in the next couple of weeks and report how successful it is.
Thanks daryl81,
I wish this topic was already around when I started my project. It will be really nice for future furler builders to have so many ideas and pictures to plan and build their own
I have another PVC prototype that I like better than my current one. It is suited for a small (16' or under) sailboat which uses parts readily available at a hardware store. I didn't like the small spindle size (1/2" PVC pipe) that I used because it didn't give enough mechanical advantage to easily spin the spool. I am going to redo the prototype and post a description and some pic's here.
Test sailed the PVC furler today and it worked pretty well. I ended up removing the brass rod line guide as it just wasn't necessary. The line coils onto the drum just fine as long as there is just a little drag or pull on the sheets. The first time I rigged it up in the driveway I secured the bottom of the furler to hold the bearing flange from rotating. Later I let it freewheel on a stainless steel washer and nylox stainless nut threaded above the turnbuckle. Simple, inexpensive and functional furler for a smaller boat.
I have been reviewing this thread w/great interest.I have a 23' cutter rigged boat.The question I have is,when it is stated that you cut a channel in the PVC for the bolt rope,I am assuming your ripping up through the entire length of the spar.??I assume also that this does not weaken it.Any updates (Greene) or modifications you have done.It looks like what I want to do for my boat.
Thanks
Jeff
Well the biggest modification was selling the boat with the furler on it. Actually the only modification I would make would be to shorten the overall height of the unit by reducing the spool height. You really only need about 2.5" to 3" of spool area for the little bit of line that wraps around it. If you look back at the original Etch-A-Sketch drawing, I used a long version of the 1 1/2" PVC coupling for part #5. I would use a standard length 1 1/2" PVC coupler which is quite a bit shorter. Both items are readily available at the big box lumber stores.
I attached the sail to the PVC by means of 1/8" Amsteel rope as suggested by Salty19. This worked well and I didn't have to worry about weakening the pipe with a slot.
Let us know how your project goes. I am still deciding whether to buy a CDI furler or make another homemade one for our 19.
Mike
Obviously I am very new to sailing and need to make it as easy as possible. I have a question about your design. Is the lazy susan bearing the only connection joining the drum and above to the mount or is there something else that I am not catching about it. From what I understand of it I like the concept. I intend to use this design on my 19' oday mariner. I have also thought about maybe beefing up the 1/2' pipe on top to 1' or even possibly using light weight metal as is used on the top of chain link fence. (answers and opinions on my thoughts please)
James
Yes, the only connection between the two parts was the lazy susan bearing. There is very little pressure (if any) trying to pull them apart. There seems to be some downward pressure on the whole assembly from the weight of the furler, lines and sail.
As far as beefing up the "foil" is concerned, it is just a matter of preference. I liked the idea of a small diameter as it is the leading edge of the sail. I was using a 155 sail on my furler and it handled that much sail area without any issues. If your sail has more square footage, maybe a larger diameter foil would be a good idea.
I still haven't started on a furler for our 19 yet. The relatively cheap CDI FF1 looks like a nice alternative for our trailerables.
Mike
I see your point about the leading edge of the sail and due to that fact will more than likely move forward attempting to duplicate your design. Thanks for your input. As I said before I am new to sailing but it seems to be addictive to me.
Thanks again
James
Cool! Why be suckered into spending big bucks like me? Gotta work. Says so on the plan....man.
"A little lace and a little paint will make her what she ain't."
skip.
Here's a link to the original Greg Cowan furler design paper.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1AlcNX3oHuCCnJDQmDAXv07Djs3V0E1U7RMEZP2Se5LU/edit?hl=en&authkey=CObh76QP (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1AlcNX3oHuCCnJDQmDAXv07Djs3V0E1U7RMEZP2Se5LU/edit?hl=en&authkey=CObh76QP)
I thought it might help.
Regards, TG