Anyone know how to heave to on the compac 16?
I would think it would be the same on any sail boat ?
but I'm just a novice sailor.
Glenn B.
Well, you can either lean out over the side and heave, or off of the stern. Heaving off of the bow I think would be frowned on and it is generally recommended to not get any on deck as it can be slippery.
Basically just tack, but leave the jib sheet cleated, then push the rudder all the way to leeward and tie it off. In my last sail this year I was single handing and had to fix a tangled line on the fore deck. I hove to in about 15mph winds and I was able to get the line untangled, but I was making a lot of leeway. I'm not sure if I could have adjusted the sails to slow the sideway slippage, bug I have a feeling it has more to do with the shoal keel than the sail trim.
For those in doubt of how or why to heave to or just new to sailing I would recommend getting a copy of "HAND, REEF AND STEER" by Richard Henderson. A good source of sailing information for all level of sailors. I have had my copy for 40 + years and still enjoy pulling it out on dark stormy nights.
Good sailing, Melvin
Mel, is there a recent publication of that book? Always looking for good reading material. As for heaving too ( the boat heaving anyway-lol) Yeah, I always come about and leave the jib cleated, the main a little loose and the tiller to leeward. Play with it a little, I can get my compac 23 to almost still with just a slight upwind movement it 20 knts wind. you may have to loosen the jib too, but don't let it flap.
A common misconception is that the bow has to be perpendicular to the wind. Some boats heave that way, but I like the bow about 50 degrees off the wind (makes for a better motion) I adjust that by playing with the sails, the main mostly.
Try it, once you do it you always have the comfort of "parking" your boat while you tend to some disaster. I seem to have a lot of those....
In my ship's papers notebook was found this Sail Magazine, January-2004 piece about THE ART OF HEAVING TO.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ArtofHeavingto-1.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ArtofHeavingto-2.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ArtofHeavingto-3.jpg)
skip.
I asked for reading material...thanks Skip!
I always kept the main sheet hard to center (main is stalled) and the boat drifted nicely sideways beam to. Keep in mind that it's not intended to be a substitute for a sea anchor and to park your boat. In fact one of the benefits of drifting sideways is that it smooths the water in your wake and minimizes breaking waves on your vessel, sort of a green version of hanging oil soaked baggywrinkle over the windward rail.
Ron
newt Not sure if new publication is out, Barns and Noble would be good place to check. I heave to every time I get back to harbor entrance where I take down and stow sails before either rowing back to dock or if winds are to high I crank up the iron jenny.
Capt. Ron Be careful of those sticky oil subjects,
Winds and sun nice today but had some kind of hard substance on surface of pond all day.
A fantastic read (must read) on this topic is "Storm Tactics" authored by the Pardey's.
It is a modern thorough examination of heaving-to as a storm tactic which had become somewhat of a lost skill. Depending on what the conditions mandate and how your vessel responds one can heave-to without or with a "para-anchor". Tons of detail in book.
Robert Manry used such techniques so he could get much needed rest and deal with several storms when he crossed the Atlantic in Tinkerbelle (13.5') back in 1965.
Having the knowledge and skills for storm management would be a prerequisite for any offshore or Great Lakes sailing.
Let the training begin...............
Quote from: seadover on January 31, 2010, 03:46:53 PM
A fantastic read (must read) on this topic is "Storm Tactics" authored by the Pardey's.
It is a modern thorough examination of heaving-to as a storm tactic which had become somewhat of a lost skill. Depending on what the conditions mandate and how your vessel responds one can heave-to without or with a "para-anchor". Tons of detail in book.
Robert Manry used such techniques so he could get much needed rest and deal with several storms when he crossed the Atlantic in Tinkerbelle (13.5') back in 1965.
Having the knowledge and skills for storm management would be a prerequisite for any offshore or Great Lakes sailing.
Let the training begin...............
Just remember that every boat handles different, and every storm generates unique conditions, so no single storm management strategy is going to work for all boats and all storms. While I suffer from a dearth of experience, from what I have read, sometimes you end up using a number of different strategies even with the same boat during the same storm, depending on the condition of crew, craft, and weather/waves.
Thanks Skip, makes one feel good about our hull/keel design. The go fast/point high modern mentality is not aimed at good safe seamanship. I owned a 35 foot wooden Atkin gaff rigged double ender who's keel was the hull and about a one foot deep I beam. We had trouble keeping up with others unless there was thirty knots of breeze. Then we had all sails up and watched the others drop their sails. Boy was I feeling smug!
I need visual, thanks, will keep in file.
I know its been a while since this thread began, but...
I found that my CP16CB hove to quite nicely in 20kts during this first summer with her. Pretty much as stated above, tack, keep the jib cleated and let it backwind, and secure the tiller leeward. I left the main sheet free, although this is the only boat I've sailed where that seemed to work well. She may "hunt" a bit to find the balance as the jib backfills and starts to make some headway before the rudder gains effectiveness, but when she does she became very steady. No headway and and a little less than 2 kts of drift to lee in the aforementioned 20kts of wind.
It was perfect for quieting things down so my wife could tend to the baby below or we could eat our lunch. Works great!
I'd like to add three points:
Once the boat has completed the tack with the jib cleated to windward, luff the main and keep the boat in the new tack course until its speed is reduced to 1-2 knots, then move the tiller to leeward.
Also, if possible, always heave to in a starboard tack, because while hove-to the boat is still underway and the crossing rules in the ColRegs still apply. While hove-to in a port tack any sailboat approaching on a starboard tack (or on a port tack from downwind) will insist in being the stand-on vessel and you'll have to give way. It may also happen while hove-to to starboard if a sailboat reaching in a starboard tack approaches from downwind (it happened to me twice) but this is a more rare occasion.
To resume sailing from a hove-to position three things need to happen more or less at the same time: tack the jib, center the tiller and bring the main in. You'll most likely be in a beam-reach.
PS.- I now have a SunCat and the ability to heave-to in this dynamic manner is what I miss the most...
J.
I have always kept the main sail sheeted to centerline when hove to - no scalloping or forward progress - more steadying action and less luffing. To get under way again I simply bring the tiller up to centerline and then wear around (a jibe tack if you will), minimum fuss and you end up on your original tack.
Ron
The position of the main while hove-to varies with the hull design, the desired angle to the wind and waves, the wind strength and how much forward speed is acceptable. On light fin-keeled boats (i.e., the Sonnar 23) a sheeted-in main causes the boat to continue to sail forward. With sailboats with a full keel (i.e., most Alberg designs) and in strong winds, the main needs to be luffed to avoid excessive heeling to leeward. Since most smaller Com-Pac's are shoal-keeled none of these extremes may be required with these boats, as appropriately pointed out by Potcake boy.
J.