So I go to Ace Hardware and pick out four bronze 1/2 o.s. dia bushings with shoulders by 1~1/2 inch long and two 3~1/2 inch stainless steel bolts with two nylon nuts, and 8 s.s flat washers. The bolts fit snuggly within the bronze bushings. The above cost $14.72 for my friends boat.
The aluminum castings already have a plastic/nylon spacer within the hole from the factory. I drilled this hole to 1/2 inch with my cordless drill and pulled these plastic things out.
Drop the bolt into the bushing and tap on the bolt head...this will tap the bushing into the new hole in the aluminum casting. One needs to drill the casting bolted on to the transom and the casting holding the rudder blade/IdaSailor. The bushings sit shoulder to shoulder, one down, one up, and the washers fit under the nuts, two flat washers per each nut. Lots of Never Seize and it's good till the bronze bushing are used up and become sloppy. A long time away. Skip. This is a lot easier then when I did this to my boat.
I bought some stainless steel tubing stock from MSC Direct and hacksawed to the length I needed. I couldn't find bushings in a hardware store that were the right size. Don't remember off hand the size. This was for a CP23. Sounds like you made a good find at Ace.
Curtis
Skip,
I have used with great success a trick I learned from a seasoned boat yard worker. Cut a shim from the flat side of a plastic milk jug and place it around rudder post - pintle bolts - or as washers on each side of the rudder stock between the upper section of the rudder blade. Makes for tight smooth operation and lasts longer than I can tell you.
On the rudder blade it provides enough friction to hold it down, but allows easy kick up or raising with the lanyard (a somewhat difficult task given the lack of advantage the lanyard has, but that is another story yet to be told). I will provide pics if anyone wishes.
Ron
Yes, but my rudder assembly had from the factory plastic inserts that the rudder was bolted into. So I drill these out till the bushing I supplied could be tapped into place.
A picture of these bushings is in the Frappr link, on the bottom of this post. skip.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00392.jpg) (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/1930fordroadster/media/ComPac%2019/DSC00392.jpg.html)
Ron,
pictures would be appreciated.
thanks,
j
Quote from: jb on December 01, 2014, 04:41:17 AM
Ron,
pictures would be appreciated.
thanks,
j
Ron sold his Com-pac a few years back (note post is from 2008). He probably isn't logging in too often, if at all these days.
thanks Salty19
2008...guess my observation skills @ 02:41 AM need some fine tuning?
j
One of the most important benefits of the simple added-washer-type-of-solution is that it prevents the bolt from tilting; thus preventing sidewise wear of the bore through the aluminum casting. After tensioning the nuts rudder play is eliminated, and you get a few more years of use before having to re-bore and shim the casting.
Citroen/Dave
..."simple added-washer-type-of-solution"..
this means double-up on all washers that are present in the rudder head assembly or some specific ones???
thanks
j
If you buy the shoulder bushings as pictured below, there is virtually no "play" at all.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_004.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_004.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_005.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_005.jpg.html)
The bushings have their own Bearing surface end to end and have only .010' difference between it's ID and the 3/8 bolt's OD
The bushing dimensions are: Flange thickness = .062"; Flange OD = .065"; Barrel OD = .505"; Bushing ID= .380" Overall Length = 1.0"
I installed these on my 19 in just over an hour total. Used a 1/2" drill X14" long extension to drill out the castings to size, tapped in the bushings with 3 in 1 oil liberally applied, and voila! done. no slop at all I used dielectric silicon grease to lubricate the bolt bushing because it hinders galvanic corrosion.
Total cost less than 10 "clams".
$0.02 Regards, TG
Tim,
Thanks for the photos and info
j
Quote from: jb on December 04, 2014, 05:29:07 AM
Tim,
Thanks for the photos and info
j
The bushings are very effective, skip has always recommended putting the bolt in upside down so you can see if nut is coming off.............. I would not recommend and put mine in with nut on bottom because i felt that if the nut did come off the bolt would still be there to hold rudder.........nies.
Quote from: Tim Gardner on December 03, 2014, 05:26:44 PM
If you buy the shoulder bushings as pictured below, there is virtually no "play" at all.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_004.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_004.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_005.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2019%20pics/WP_20141203_005.jpg.html)
The bushings have their own Bearing surface end to end and have only .010' difference between it's ID and the 3/8 bolt's OD
The bushing dimensions are: Flange thickness = .062"; Flange OD = .065"; Barrel OD = .505"; Bushing ID= .380" Overall Length = 1.0"
I installed these on my 19 in just over an hour total. Used a 1/2" drill X14" long extension to drill out the castings to size, tapped in the bushings with 3 in 1 oil liberally applied, and voila! done. no slop at all I used dielectric silicon grease to lubricate the bolt bushing because it hinders galvanic corrosion.
Total cost less than 10 "clams".
$0.02 Regards, TG
Tim - where did you get those shoulder bushings?
Lowes!
TG
I got mine at the hardware store a number of years ago and have worked great......nies
Tim - where did you get those shoulder bushings?
[/quote]
Quote from: Tim Gardner on March 14, 2015, 02:44:24 PM
Lowes!
TG
just went....couldnt find any, guess I will try bushingsonline.com or something
I bought mine from my local Ace Hardware. They are on that aisle with the pull-out drawers of "speciality hardware". I would think every Ace has them. Good luck!
will try Ace - thx
another 2 inches of snow tonite...AAARRRGGHHH
Mark,
PM me sometime if you want to meet up and sail in my CP 23.
We have a good ACE hardware around so I"ll probably need those also, btw. So far, so good though.
Bruce
Went to Ace today....nada
Guess I will have to try alternate methods
Quote from: hinmo on March 14, 2015, 01:03:50 PM
Used a 1/2" drill X14" long extension to drill out the castings to size...
Tim: Did you have to drill out the castings or was it just a plastic bushing as Skip earlier aluded to? If it was the castings, how hard was it to keep everything aligned?
Jon
I did have to use a 1/2" drill with a drill extension, but I already had the extension. You can buy a long 1/2 drill at harbor freight Item #68824 for $13. It says it's a wood drill but works fine in aluminum if you go slow. Did it by hand held drill motor in one pass., same with the rudder. Tapped in the bushings with 3 in 1 oil liberally applied, and voila! done. no slop at all I used dielectric silicon grease to lubricate the bolt bushing because it hinders galvanic corrosion.
TG
Tim: Thanks,
Jon
Did this today on the Picnic Cat...worked like a charm and took about half an hour. Now the rudder won't clang from side to side any more due to the worn plastic bushing on the lower gudgeon. Cost had gone up a bit (bushings were $4.65 each) and I had to upgrade the two bolts from 5/16" to 3/8", but total was still under $25 plus the long drill bit (thanks for the tip about Harbor Freight, Tim).
Ace is the place ... with ss washers and new bolt and ny-loc nuts ...$14.00 if you don't but a new drill bit cut down for a 3/8 chuck. [3/8's allows for smaller drill motor and that allows a tighter fit up against the transom for a straighter shot through the aluminum casting. ]
skip.
I've done this repair/modification and the only hitch I ran into was the drill size. I have a larger Makita 18v cordless and the body was too wide to allow proper alignment. I also have the Makita 18v right angle drill and that helped a lot; it allowed me to properly drill the holes so they line up. I'd think a light duty drill (read: smaller body) would be best for this project.
Bob
If you don't have a right-angle drill or one with a small enough body, then the long drill bit Tim referenced above works well as you can go through both gudgeons at once and keep the drill body away from the boat completely. I used a bigole 1/2" Craftsman corded drill and found the steadying handle (it's actually a hammer drill - of course with the hammer function turned off) really helped keeping everything aligned.