The peak halyard sometimes gets hung up on the rigging and I wonder if the orientation of the 2 halyards is backwards in the blocks and cleats. Which halyard cleat should be farthest to starboard?
My understanding is that the boats were shipped with two cleats starboard of the mast, the outboard being for the throat halyard. On the port side, the one cleat was for the boom downhaul. Line guides and turning blocks determined the respective runs. Couldn't find a good photo, this may help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKjTX0fxaWk
However, many have made changes. The port cleat especially is often repurposed for lazy jacks, gaff downhaul, topping lift, etc. Capt. Nemo wanted them all (see response #10).
https://cpyoa.com/forum/index.php?topic=7772.0
Then there is the issue that your mast stub may have been replaced. Were all lines run as before and guides, blocks, and fittings reinstalled as built?
I'm with Roland here. Next time you're at the boat take some photos. It can really help us better understand what problems you're facing. If you're having difficulty posting photos we can help, send me a PM.
Hey, Bruce:
Twice now when replying to Steve you have posted a reply to him while I was typing my reply.
For what it's worth, here are my comments.
Hi, Steve:
The fundamental concern routing the two halyard lines is to keep them quasi-parallel so that they do not cross, twist or otherwise interfere with each other.
The exact routing would depend on the locations of your turning blocks near the base of the mast, the locations of whatever fairleads which you might have, and the locations of the cleats. Having seen pictures of other SunDayCats, these locations vary.
Typically, the throat halyard comes down along the mast slightly forward and slightly starboard of the the mast's sail-track. Whereas, the peak halyard comes down along the mast slightly aft of the mast's sail-track and nearly on the centerline of the mast. Often the throat halyard is routed to the cleat furthest to starboard.
My SunDayCat has been modified to have 2:1 Purchase Ratio for the throat halyard. So, I hesitate to simply recommend copying my halyard routing. Perhaps someone with a factory 1:1 Purchase Ratio can describe their configuration.
A further description, preferably with a picture, of how "the peak halyard sometimes gets hung up on the rigging" would be helpful to understand your problem.
Regards, Roland
Bruce and Roland, thanks a lot for you guidance! The halyards were in fact reversed, and after swapping blocks and cam cleats the sail goes up much more easily. Btw, it was a bear trying to get one of the halyards through the cam cleat without unraveling. I didn't have a good way to burn the end on the boat, and electrical tape got hung up. Is there a trick?
You can whip the end, lots of YouTube videos on how to do it, but that's usually only done on 3-strand line. Polyester double braid, like you have, melts readily, and that's usually enough.
Practice at home. I'd trim the end of the line tight so there aren't many loose strands, some will tape the end first, about 1/4" to 1/2" in, to hold it together. I use a heat gun, but a soldering iron works too, to melt the end of the line and shape it with my fingers so it's tight. Away from power, a lighter or small gas torch could be used. Out of the wind would be best. Again, shape it while it's still melted enough to neaten things up. Don't burn yourself. If you used tape you should be able to remove it as this point.
Once cool, if it's still protruding some you can try lightly grinding the melted bit on a power sander to neaten things up.
I have used heat-shrink tubing to neaten up some line ends as well, usually found in the electrical supplies section of the hardware store. A lighter is still necessary to gently heat the tubing, and it can still slip off if not very snug; I am also a fan of whipping ends if melting is problematic for whatever reason.