Every time I finish a modification to the boat I tell myself that's enough, no more. Until the next sailing season and I think of something the boat really needs. This year it was a "permanent" solar panel and a lithium battery. The boat has been carrying 2-135ah deep cylces and a too large solar panel I would lay in the cockpit. Those batteries went bad so I purchased a 100ah lithium. Less than half the weight and the same cost. The solar broke when I dropped it last year. I hated having to move it constantly so no loss. This panel is attached with Velcro that is advertised to hold 15lbs and stick to a rough surfaces. The Velcro holds the panel up a bit so air can circulate and when I trailer her I can remove the panel, and reinstall it after rigging the boat and not have to move it or worry about it falling overboard. I did need to alter the sliding hatch to accommodate the panel. The panel is rated at 50 watts. This trip with Chris will be a test run to see if I need a second battery and second panel that would be installed on top of the sliding hatch. I'll admit I don't like the wires sticking up, but I'll get used to them.
Nice! That panel appears to be just the right size. I think there is one in my future.
Carl,
I bought the 100Watt version of that panel thinking I would mount it to the top of the hatch if I could figure out the best way to safely (and handsomely) run the wires on a sliding hatch and not have them be a tripping hazard. I also thought, this will help to keep people from putting any weight on the hatch, but for now it's just a loose panel that get's tucked below, and has a crazy long cable an ugly/tripping/strangling hazard...go figure. It does a nice job charging up the battery though. My goal was 3 nights out on the boat and still have battery life.. it worked.
I really like how you did it, the modification to the hatch is nice and clean and it looks great!
I used a Scanstrut to run the cables into the cabin. A bit pricey, but passed the power washer test. Links below are to the Scanstrut and Velcro.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMFGLS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMFGLS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ43PD77?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ43PD77?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
Your wiring appears to terminate with standard M12 connectors. You could clean that up a bit with having the deck connection a receptacle vs. the connector on a flying lead. This would also eliminate the connectors flopping around when the panel is removed. Threaded caps for these are cheap and easy if you need something to keep debris out.
Link below is just a reference, not shure what you need for male vs. female and number of pins.
https://www.amazon.com/Elecbee-Receptacle-Connector-D-Code-Mounting/dp/B0B4C6HSZ1?gQT=1
The problem with all the thru deck connectors is the wire size they accept. All solar wire is 10ga. I couldn't find any thru deck fitting that could handle 14 ga.
Just like art, its "enough" when you run out of time, money, or patience. (lol) I think the modifications can become part of the hobby, and its fun thinking of ways to make your boat suit you.
That seems like a pretty good solution for a boat with a severe lack of deckspace. I havent put any solar in yet, but its certainly a project in my future. I will probably just clamp one to my aft pulpit since my batteries are back there already. Your solution seems a bit more elegant and minimalistic though.
Carl, do you only charge with solar? Or do you have battery monitor,Li charger?
I have a 120v lithium charger, but the 50 watt solar panel and charge controller keep the batteries topped off.
I added a second battery before leaving for the keys. I tested them by disconnecting the solar and having all the electrics on. Including 2 power robbing fans. After 10 days the batteries were at 63%. I'm looking at 12v refrigerators.
I have a victoron controller and the 100 watt panel, and have been using an old car battery that I had but my setup stopped working and anytime the battery drops below 12v (as soon as the sun goes down) it goes to protect the battery mode and I lose all power. So I think I need a non-car battery. I'd like to do the lithium, but then I saw literature indicating that I also need a special charger and a special battery monitor. Which almost triples the price.
Yes, the solar charge controller needs to be specific for lithium. Lithium batteries can be cheaper than wetcell if you shop around, but like anything, you get what you pay for. However, If I recall, the 1st battery cost $135, a year later the 2nd battery cost $100-125. Had I replaced the wetcell batteries with exacts, would have cost $225 each. Since I was experimenting with lithium, I went cheap. I think I paid $40 for the controller. So, about $300 total for new batteries and a controller. So far they have been working great. Less weight, don't need to monitor the batteries fluid, and they can be drawn down much farther. We'll see how long they last.
Ok good to know, thank you!
That's a good looking installation. And useful too. To your question, there are never enough mods!
Thought I'd post some pics of my modifications. The dropboard fan runs 24/7 bringing fresh air through the boat. 2- 100ah lithium batteries power everything. The sink's water is supplied by a 10 gallon tank sitting under the cockpit. Just enough foam was removed to hold it there. The sink was raised so the thru-hull is above the waterline. After cutting the bow open, removing the foam, and building thebstorage boxes. New foam was poured.
Nicely done! I'm thinking about something like this for my 23.
Thanks for the pictures - looks like great work!