How best to secure a small (10lb?) Danforth on a 16 with as little drilling into the deck as possible? There is an indication that the previous owner somehow hung the anchor on the bow rail but I don't like the aesthetics of that and think it might be dangerous to neighbors in tight marinas.
Not much room on the foredeck. There are anchor hangers that attach to the bow rail. The aesthetics may not be pleasing, but it shouldn't be a problem in a marina. My Starwind 19 had such an anchor hanger and it never was a cause for concern.
I have a solution. I've designed a shoe to bolt to the thick part of the deck immediately behind the bow cleat. The edge of one of the plates (flanges? planes?) of the anchor farther from the shaft slides into the "toe," closer to the cleat; the back edge of the plate drops into the heel. The plate is four inches wide; the heel and tow are 2.25; the wider dimension allows for a slot and a hole on either side to accept bungie cord hooks. A bit of peel-and-press non-skid goes under the points of the fluke and the rode end of the shaft to protect the deck. I've got a shop that works with stainless. I'll have it made of a gauge close to 3/16.
Did you ever add that bowsprit? It makes a convenient place to stow and deploy the anchor. Tried to attach a picture but alas this forum still is not user friendly for such. It was a jpeg file which is a standard in the industry, years ago it was no problem.
Quote from: Mas on March 16, 2025, 10:42:09 AMDid you ever add that bowsprit? It makes a convenient place to stow and deploy the anchor. Tried to attach a picture but alas this forum still is not user friendly for such. It was a jpeg file which is a standard in the industry, years ago it was no problem. Note]
No, the bowsprit is a distant wish at this point. It would be a perfect place, though.
Adding to Mas' comment, my '86 16 had a bowsprit. It is the perfect place to hang the anchor.
a little look at the bow of the 16 and my anchor.
Very pretty boat! I see that if I add a bowsprit I need to replace the bow rail I have. <sigh> Another expense. I s'pose I can get one from Compac . . . .
Truly you may wish to consider looking for a Mk 2 ,my preference, or a Mk 3. There are multiple changes that were made such as the pulpit is SS rather than aluminum. The downside for such a search is that the bulk of the 16's made were Mark 1's. Meanwhile enjoy the 16 you have understanding it's limitations but celebrating its attributes!
I've designed and am having a fab shop make a mount that will attach immediately behind the bow cleat. In profile it's like a shoe. Bottom edge of one of the rectangular plates on a Danforth slips into the toe (180-degree bend with 1/4 inch radius) and the top edge of the same plate drops in front of a heel set at 90 degrees from the mount plane screwed to the deck. I've tried my best to attach the diagram but I can't figure out how to do it. "File is too big," and then as a Zip-whatever it drags/drops but fills the whole screen as though I've dropped it on my desktop. (And still can't attach pics of the nav lights or their wiring.)
It is a pain, but you have to re-size the pics down. Then they will work. Samsung's Gallery has a re-size option. I'm not sure about the Apple platform.
Easy on an Apple. Most file types will open in Apple's included Preview and under the Tool menu that provides several image editing features, including resize and cropping.
Quote from: MarshHen on April 10, 2025, 08:52:30 PMIt is a pain, but you have to re-size the pics down. Then they will work. Samsung's Gallery has a re-size option.
Thankee. I don't use smartphones. My wife has one and it treats me with absolute contempt. I'll try to find a way to do it on my laptop, which also treats me with contempt but not as deeply.
Quick update: It cost me $200 to have the shoe fabricated in stainless and I had to do some vice-and-hammer modifications, but it's a dandy now. Overlaps the raised portion at the bow, angled so the shaft passes to the side of the air scoop. I'm going to have to put down some self-stick pads of some sort where the points of the flukes and the end of the shaft touch the deck. I've put down three layers of masking tape as a temporary fix.
Over and out