My 4 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke (MFS4C) ran like a top all summer, but cut out on me in an awkward spot while entering a marina last week. I could restart on one pull, but it would quit again after a few seconds. Fortunately I was close enough to limp in this way. Switching from the external to internal tank didn't change the misbehavior.
I took the boat back out 2 days ago, and the symptom persists, but it was a great day and the winds were blowing out from the launch, so getting in and out without a motor wasn't tough.
I realize that this must be a fuel problem, but I've never dissected a carburetor before, and I'm not sure that's the first step anyway. I want to sail another month yet this season.
How would you approach this if it happened to you?
i have a 2010 4hp tohatsu and had the same problem since day one. it was cheaper to have the carb replaced than rebuilt. less than $200.
Renae:
This is probably a shot in the dark but worth mentioning. This past summer I experienced the same thing but it turned out to be a fuel line connection at the motor that was she culprit. My fix was simple: remember to push the fitting all the way in! Duh. I doubt your fix will be that simple but maybe the fitting on your fuel line is bad? Maybe.
Happy sailing! I plan to sail well into October, best sailing season here in NJ!
Cheers!
Bob23
My 5 hp Tohatsu/Mercury has always been prone to these inconvenient work stoppages. It's usually due to clogged jets in the carb. They are so tiny that the tiniest spec of debris will ruin your day. I've learned to filter every drop of fuel and to keep a close eye on the fuel hose and fittings.
Wed
Was the cooling water spitting out when the motor quit? Impeller or gear oil.
Was the red light flashing when it quit? Could be low oil?
Is the fuel filter clogged?
Good spark plug/connection?
I would check these areas before delving into the carb, because I have no luck fixing these little carbs!
Does this happen when at low speed only or even when revved above 1/4 throttle? The idle/low speed passages in these carbs clog easily, but can be blown out with carb cleaner by removing the screw on the top side of the carb and spraying carb cleaner down through that hole. If it will run at high throttle then stall out when you let it off that's the first thing to do. If it dies at higher throttle then it's fuel supply through the main jet, either from fuel line like Bob23 stated, or from a plugged seat or main jet which you need to pull the carb and float bowl to get at. It's an easy job if you just make sure everything goes back the way it came apart. $200 is a lot to spend on a replacement carb. I've never spend more than 45 minutes removing a carb, cleaning, and re-assembling it on an engine like this. If you're going to own small carbureted gas engines this is something you are inevitably going to want to learn
Ethanol is the bane of our small outboard motors existences! I've been using E-Zorb water remover in my gas for years and I haven't had these kinds of problems. I also use premium fuel. My biggest problem is me forgetting to hook up the fuel line!
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon_MDR-MDR574-ZORB-WATER-10/dp/B07KN5BWLH/ref=sr_1_15?hvadid=78615134223189&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvqmt=p&keywords=ezorb&qid=1569441177&sr=8-15
Cheers!
Bob23
Random thoughts:
These Carbs are very simple, only three places of possible trouble, two jets and a float valve, don't be afraid of taking it off and cleaning it. I'm sure someone has done a youtube on it.
The Jets can clog with gunk and have to be cleaned, the float valve can stick either open (bypassing leading to flooding) or closed starving for fuel.
Fuel always gets blamed, but there is no real air filter only a pig catcher. If there is any source of fine dust it can clog a carb. Dirt dauber nests built in the cowl can do it, don't ask me how I know.
I used my boat yesterday and overnight. It has the six hp Tohatsu/Nissan sail pro. It started on the second pull and ran for an hour out to my anchorage. Then an hour back this morning. It had been sitting for two weeks when I started it. Prior to that it had been sitting for three months. Same two pulls. It has been this way for the four years I've owned it. The only time I've had a problem is with the aforementioned dirt daubers and it took me two cleanings of the carb to get back from that. You can bet I check for them every time I go to the boat.
My protocol is different than most advise. I NEVER run it dry. I NEVER disconnect the fuel line unless I'm adding fuel. I use non ethanol gasoline with a spot of SeaFoam. If I haven't run a tank down in a six months or so I put it in my truck and start fresh. I'm running two of these small carb motors on that protocol, one on the sailboat, one on a skiff and have no trouble with either (as long as I keep the dirt daubers at bay).
My Tohatsu 4HP starts on the first or second pull everytime, I recently cleaned and rebuilt the carb with the Tohatsu carb kit and replaced the fuel pump as it was gunked up as well from the previous owner using Ethanol fuel.
Here is my recipe to beat stale fuel:
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=11276.msg85213#msg85213
Defender has the Tothatsu carbs for a good price:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Tohatsu+Carberator&x=0&y=0
I ordered my misc parts from:
https://www.boats.net/
and
https://www.tohatsu.us/
Quote from: carry-on on September 25, 2019, 12:41:15 PM
Was the cooling water spitting out when the motor quit? Impeller or gear oil.
Was the red light flashing when it quit? Could be low oil?
Is the fuel filter clogged?
Good spark plug/connection?
I would check these areas before delving into the carb, because I have no luck fixing these little carbs!
Impeller working—first thing I checked.
No oil light.
I think I'm back to a fuel delivery problem.
Quote from: slode on September 25, 2019, 01:18:28 PM
Does this happen when at low speed only or even when revved above 1/4 throttle? The idle/low speed passages in these carbs clog easily, but can be blown out with carb cleaner by removing the screw on the top side of the carb and spraying carb cleaner down through that hole. If it will run at high throttle then stall out when you let it off that's the first thing to do. If it dies at higher throttle then it's fuel supply through the main jet, either from fuel line like Bob23 stated, or from a plugged seat or main jet which you need to pull the carb and float bowl to get at. It's an easy job if you just make sure everything goes back the way it came apart.
During my first misadventure, I actually escaped the rock piles by getting it to run at very low throttle, which would still kill when I opened it up.
Quote from: slode on September 25, 2019, 01:18:28 PM$200 is a lot to spend on a replacement carb. I've never spend more than 45 minutes removing a carb, cleaning, and re-assembling it on an engine like this. If you're going to own small carbureted gas engines this is something you are inevitably going to want to learn
I totally agree that $200 for a carb that may or may not fix the issue is not going to happen. As for the "If you're going to own..." part, I agree that if I were in for the long haul with this motor, I would need to get comfortable with the fuel system. I'm not in for the long haul though. My plan was to limp this motor along for a year or two then buy a Torqueedo. I'd be fine doing that now, but I don't want to miss a single day on the lake setting that up as October creeps in.
I do disconnect my fuel tank when I trailer. The quick disconnect doesn't always seem to click on as crisply as it should. I did think of that, but I'm not sure why a bad tank connection on the external would make a difference when I switched to the internal tank. It seems to me that the problem has to be something that the tanks hold in common.
From the fact that it will run at idle tells me it's not the idle/low speed carb circuit. If it bogs and dies immediately when you open the throttle it's a plugged main jet. If it revs but dies after a few seconds its a plugged seat, both of which are commons with either tank supplying it. That means pulling the carb and cleaning those parts out or putting in a carb kit. If you have any friends around that know even the first thing about carbs they may be able to help. I typically charge a 12 pack for a job like this...
All the suggestions about non-ethanol fuel, using stabilizer, and not running it dry I agree with.
Renae,
Sorry you're having OB problems. I can relate, my Lehr 2.5 and Honda 2 have been reliably problematic all summer. Fortunately, a friend lent me her Torqeedo 1003. It has it's own issues, but fuel isn't one of them. Power wise, a 1000 W motor (3HP) is fine for a PC, hull speed is reached at about 70% throttle. It's all about battery capacity. Not sure which Torqeedo you're thinking about.
If you do decide to go electric, in a couple of years, or sooner out of frustration, give the ePropulsion line a look. The Spirit 1.0 is a direct competitor with the Torqeedo 1003C, and the newer 1103C. I took delivery on one this week. I like it better than the Torqeedo, although not so much that I'd replace the Torqeedo if I owned one already.
This UK dealer sells both, and has done a nice comparison. On the PC, the larger motor housing on the 1103C may not play nice with the rudder.
https://nestawayboats.com/shop/e-propulsion-spirit-1kw-electric-outboard/
Plugboats has a guide on electric motors in this range.
https://plugboats.com/electric-outboards-less-than-5-kw/
The ePropulsion Navy 3.0 is a 6 HP equivalent. Battery pack alone is $3K.
I know Mike, and others, like their trolling motors. Plugboats did a guide for them as well.
https://plugboats.com/electric-trolling-motors/
Bruce,
I'd love to hear more about your ePropulsion motor as you get a feel for it. I have mostly been thinking about the Torqueedo 1003 for my Suncat, and it's nice to know there are alternatives.
The decision can happily be delayed a bit longer—I took apart the carburetor on my Tohatsu, sprayed the heck out of everything with carb cleaner, doing the same to the fuel filter and the connectors for good measure. I put everything back together and the motor runs. Hopefully that will get me through October.
My biggest concern so far based on casual online reading concerning the Torqueedo—and it appears to be similar for the ePropulsion—is the length of the tiller. On the Tohatsu, I can angle the tiller up over the top of the transom, so the distance from the transom to the back of the motor mount can be shorter. I don't know if that makes sense, and I haven't even gotten to the point of making measurements, but I doubt that using the Torqueedo with a remote and fixed steering would be satisfactory. Too much loss of maneuverability.
Back in business, I hope,
Renae
The Torqueedo's and ePropulsion's are nice alternatives, aside from the loss of maneuverability Renae points out, but keep in mind the steep price of the batteries and their future replacement costs, if that is within your budget, go for it. The Torqueedo 1003 is really undersized for the Suncat if you sail in any type of coastal conditions or windy inland lakes like I do. My Tothatsu 4HP was not cutting it on my windy lake but when I changed the prop to a high thrust Sail Pro model it works like a charm now.
If I were to start over I would buy the Tohatsu LPG / Propane 5 HP 25" Sail Pro model. It avoids the gas issues, I'm sure the Lehr owners can tell us more, but this is Tohatsu, with a far superior reputation then the Lehr's.
Tohatsu MFS5LPG:
https://www.tohatsu.com/outboards/5_4st_lpg.html
Good prices at Defender, even better during the March Spring Sale:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Tohatsu%20Propane&s=1
This Trident 1410 LPG Propane Gas Cylinder may slide into the fuel locker, double check the height.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276204|2276205|2276252|2276262&id=59110 (https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276204%7C2276205%7C2276252%7C2276262&id=59110)
Excellent, I hope your Tohatsu is back to normal!
On the Torqeedo and Spirit, I agree about the tiller. I don't need another one. Both have remotes, the Torqeedo is cabled, the Spirit is Bluetooth, with a cable backup. I much prefer the wireless.
Also agree about fixed steering, I tried it for a while on the Torqeedo and was reminded why I said I won't do that again. Also tried removing the fixing pin on the Torqeedo underway. I didn't lose the battery, or either pin (battery and steering), but it was a pain. The leather shim I installed has stiffened up the pivot adequately to leave the motor unpinned, so I can steer with it. I'm just careful to pivot the motor to rest on the deck flange when tilted.
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=11523.msg86767#msg86767
The Spirit also lacks a way of tightening the pivot (why?), but it already is tight enough. These motors don't vibrate much, unlike my Honda and Lehr. The Spirit remote version comes with hardware for installing steering cables. I removed that, but left a small arm on front of the motor, a mini tiller if you will. To that I attached a rubber bumper that when the motor is tilted lands between the clamping brackets, preventing the motor from pivoting more than a few degrees. No motor slamming into the deck flange.
I did investigate how the Torqeedo could be readily locked so it wouldn't pivot, without relying on the pin they provide. The best solution I found was to install a retractable, spring-loaded pin, mounted on a platform found on the front between the clamping brackets, that would engage the front to the motor. Retract the pin to pivot the motor, engage the pin to lock it centerlined. Since the motor was a loaner I didn't proceed with the mod. McMaster Carr has suitable plungers, in 316 SS or 18-8 with acetal plungers if marring is a concern. A simple mounting bracket of aluminum angle could be tapped with suitable threads to hold the plunger, adjusted and locked with a lock nut, mounted to the platform shown.
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3501
I did do a longer write up for another forum, with more photos, and more about performance and battery capacity on my PC. Send me a PM with your email if anyone wants a copy.
Bruce,
That sure looks nice, it does beat the Tohatsu and propane tank for size by a long mile.
I agree with Tom about power, make sure it fits your needs. Mike is happy with a 55 lbs. thrust trolling motor on his SC, and others are happy with a small 2-3 HP kicker. 3 HP is plenty for us, more weight on the transom is a real problem.
There is no loss of maneuverability with an electric OB if set up right. And, compared to other 2-3 HP motors, they have a real reverse.
The build quality of the Lehr is OK, not great. In 5 years of use, I never had a carburetor issue, but I did have several gas leaks, the last being a fuel line with crimped fittings that required replacement. I would expect the Tohatsu to be better, but leaking propane on a small boat is a special kind of fun. Explosive, compared to gasoline or diesel. And, leaking fuel will freeze human tissue in seconds, and render any gaskets hard and brittle, so tightening becomes futile. I know propane is safely used in many applications, but it does have its risks.
All motors are great, until they fail to start when it's time to go home!
I have been running a Torqueedo for two seasons now, on a Sun, so will be able to offer some advice and impressions of that motor. As Bruce points out, there are some issues but we have been happy with the motor overall. I skimmed the comparison Bruce mentions, too, and the E would need a close look. When I purchased, there was a local dealer for the Torq and the E was (as I recall) very new on the market so it was an easy choice for us.
I agree that you need the maneuverability of the tiller arm. I ran it fixed for a while, using the remote, and found that I could easily get into trouble at the dock before we had enough way on for the rudder to have good effect. My current strategy is to use the remote for all motor control - speed and direction - and use the tiller as needed to maneuver, stowing it away when not in use. "When needed" is mostly heading out from the dock - just long enough to get up some speed - and (with a homemade bracket to hold it in place) when dousing sail in big waves, which can cause enough cavitation that the motor can spin off center at the worst possible moment. I would be a little concerned about the tiller arm on the E being fixed, and would want some assurance that the motor would tip up OK with the arm folded.
I advise going all in with the larger battery if you go with Torq. I started with the smaller one, but a couple times further from port with less remaining battery than optimal got me into the larger battery as a spare. Then, with the smaller one recalled and a good offer from the company for an upgrade, I now have two 915 batteries and no worries about range (for my needs, anyway). If modest cruising is in our future, so is a solar panel. I also like using the remote for control. The tiller arm, on our setup, would not be secure when the motor is tipped up. And the remote allows you to be facing forward more effectively than you would reaching back for the motor.
Electric was a great choice for our needs, as I have divested of all other small engines (all yard tools now electric) and didn't want to break the pattern when we got the boat. Maintenance is practically non-existent and (so long as the cables are nice and tight) it starts every time. One does need to allow for less power in reverse than other motors might offer, so our approach to a dock is always cautious.
Thanks, Jim, good to hear the Torqeedo works for your SC. The 1003 I've been using has the 533 Wh battery, and we have to be conservative to make sure we have enough battery for contingencies. Typically we land with about 50% battery charge remaining. The Spirit has a 1018 Wh battery, much more comfortable.
Just to clarify, the Torqeedo comes with a tiller standard, the remote is extra, and can be swapped for the tiller. With the Spirit it's one or the other, and they aren't interchangeable. Mine doesn't have the tiller at all, so there is no issue with the tiller interfering with tilting. The bumper I installed keeps the motor from uncontrolled pivoting when tilted. The tiller version of the Spirit can be tilted, reportedly, but held no interest for me.
When I steer by the motor in either case it is without a tiller, I just grab the motor and twist it. Like you, I do that around the dock, when there is little flow over the rudder, and when backing especially, to keep my stern pointing were I want to go. I could attach a small tiller-like handle, without the electronics, if the motor was hard to reach. That isn't the case with either motor.
The Spirit doesn't have GPS for SOG, as the Torqeedo does, but my other GPS agreed with the Torqeedo so I'm covered. It does have battery charge remaining and power output, which I use the most. The throttle on the Spirit is stiffer, and could require two hands on a slippery surface. I installed a base with sticky silicone non-skid, and now it sticks like a magnet to gel coat, or varnished wood. I'd done the same with the Torqeedo.
I, too, have on occasion simply grabbed the motor to maneuver and that is effective enough. With the tiller arm slipped on I feel more in control, and don't have to reach back over the transom to reach it. As you point out, it comes standard with the motor so it will be on hand to experiment with. A wireless remote would be handy, as with the Spirit. And a battery that floats, again as with the Spirit, could be a good thing. I have changed the battery while out and about and there seemed only a little danger in reasonable conditions and the motivation for care is very strong.
I would not want to routinely try to put the fixing pin in and out while underway, as removing the battery that often to gain access seems imprudent. I agree that is not a viable option.
Just curious, Jim, what do see for hull speed under power, and at what power level is that reached. We see about 4.5 kts. at 65-70% power, beyond that is wasted unless we need the torque. The Honda and Lehr were about the same. Under sail, I've seen 5.6, 5.4 on several occasions.
I have little info on speed under sail, since I rarely leave the Torqueedo display on for long and have no other instrumentation. But on a recent relatively high speed sail with the display on for quite a while we were seeing 5+ consistently and peaks nearing 6 (mph). Under power, without benefit of having taken notes or made a point to monitor closely, I would say our experience is at least roughly similar on a Sun Cat, probably a bit less speed. I usually 'cruise' into the marina at around 2.5 - 3 mph at roughly half power (maybe a bit above) and hit 5 mph or so nearing full power. We go to full power when dousing sail in big wind and heavy chop, and have not yet gotten into trouble in those conditions, though it has been a near thing a couple times (at perhaps 25 mph wind and 3 foot choppy waves). In calm water our experience is similar to yours - that you get only modest benefit above around 3/4 power - and significant loss of potential distance. Even a slight decrease in power in those conditions makes quite a difference in time and distance remaining.
Thanks. You are correct, my numbers are for mild to moderate conditions. Slamming into 3' chop and 25 kts. of wind I'm busy, and using what I've got.
We have about a 1 NM transit from ramp to sailing grounds, past several marinas and mooring fields, so lots of traffic at times, and finally through a dredged channel. We have to keep up, but 3.5 kts, which is about 50% power, is a good compromise heading out. Coming back in I'm less patient, I no longer have to save much for contingencies, and I'm fending off any powerboaters heading towards the ramp, so 4.0 kts is more typical.
It is amazing how critical it is to watch power consumption. First time I used the Torqeedo I went through 10% of the battery charge in maybe a 100 yards. Got my attention.
True enough, the need to watch the power...we have a short run to open water and in light to moderate air we often set out and motor back in on under 10% of the larger battery (and, when we had it, sometimes 10% or less of the smaller battery). But a longer run in (loss of patience in light air, for example) or heavy conditions can really cut into the capacity. Head winds make a difference as well.
The sad truth of the physics of work and the efficiency of propellers.
Specifically battery energy capacity vs. gasoline. 1 gallon of gas contains 33.7 Kwh of energy. At worse 4 stroke outboards run at around 15-20% efficiency turning that gas to useable energy (rest goes to heat). That equates to over 1200 amp hours of 12V power required to match a 3 gallon tank. That's a lot of battery!
The torqueedo batteries run at 29.6 volts, so if my calculations are done correctly my 915 Whr battery boasts (providing for rounding) 31 Ahr. Ya, physics is a bear. Still like the motor, though!
For energy density, gasoline beats propane and electric, no argument there. Fortunately, I don't need to maximize the range for my outboard. The battery bank is integral to the motor, a requirement, and should be enough for us. FWIW, electric propulsion at these levels and higher is always at higher voltage, to reduce the amperage. From the manufacturers: The Spirit is rated at 40.7 volts, 24.6 Ah, and 55% efficiency; the Torqeedo 1003C is 29.6 volts, 31 Ah, and 48% efficiency.
Personally, my motivation is to increase reliability, to reduce the stress for what is suppose to be fun, having been let down by both my internal combustion outboards this summer. Both had been serviced, started right up in the driveway, ran fine at launch, and failed to start for the trip home. At last count, I have 10 small gas motors I run and maintain, including the outboards. Having the tractor crap out when it's time to mow the lawn is a pain. Having to tell the crew dinner will be late is worse.
Bruce, I feel your pain.
TG
Before we retired from the farm, we had quite a slew of small engines on a variety of tools, and (for the brief time we had it) a completely reliable small Honda 4-stroke on our West Wight Potter. Though they mostly worked when needed, I have never had a great relationship with small engines, and when we moved to the city we systematically distanced ourselves from them. None left! We are all electric, mostly battery (even the little chain saw). Our Sun was originally going to come with a low-hours 8 hp 4 stroke Yamaha, probably a great motor but quite a lot more hp than this craft needed, and probably not started for at least several years. I foresaw potential difficulties getting it running again, only to need a smaller one ultimately anyway. Torqueedo to the rescue! Once one gets over the pain of expense, the electric motor is a great choice unless long runs during cruising are needed.
Quote from: bruce on October 03, 2019, 03:51:58 PM
Personally, my motivation is to increase reliability, to reduce the stress for what is suppose to be fun, having been let down by both my internal combustion outboards this summer.
That's it in a nutshell for me. I electrics are coming into their own, and will only get better. No one--I think--honestly thinks we will be running gas outboards in 50 years.
As for coastal reliability, I would not venture off shore without a primary motor and a capable backup. I haven't yet sailed in Lake Superior, but I plan to next year, and having the Tohatsu AND the Torqueedo is probably the only way I would be able to relax. At any rate, the dinosaur-burner is back in shape and my final sails (probably this week and the next) will be amply propelled.
Well, the quality of my carb servicing is open to question. Despite a good test in a bucket of water in my barn, and an equally good trip out of the marina in Lake City, MN yesterday, the outboard crapped out on me about a half kilometer from the marina on return. Pretty much the same issue—it would kill but could be restarted and then would kill shortly after again.
This time I was fighting 4-5 foot waves and 25 mph sustained winds. I had just doused sail in what barely passed for a sheltered cove and had I not been able to coax the engine to run at low throttle after about 15 restarts/kills, I was minutes away from ending up on a rock pile. "Fool me twice—shame on me." I will have a Torqueedo in the spring.
Incidentally, I was one of three Suncats spotted in Lake City yesterday. One was one the trailer, having just been removed from its slip. Another was still in the slip, and is listed for sale on Craigslist. I got a brief moment to chat with the gentleman who owned the first before heading out for what was likely the last sail of an epic first season, but stupid me, I forgot to ask if he was online here. Are you?
I did some thinking about the Suncats on Lake Pepin on the drive home. I wonder if they followed their owners up from other ports, or if they were intended for Pepin all along. I suspect the first, because as much as I love my Suncat, I wouldn't have bought it if I had ready access to a slip. The price of even a used SC would buy one heck of a sloop. As a trailerable ride though (I sailed 5 different lakes this summer), I really love my choice.
Much thanks to Roger, who sold me his, and props on his rigging modifications.
I had similar symptoms, and the culprit was ethanol related deterioration of the fuel hose. No sooner would I have the carb cleaned than it would clog again. On small engines with tiny jets, your fuel, fuel tank and hose must be pristine. When in doubt, replace the hose.
Or get religious about ethanol-free fuel.
Power boats with 350 hp Yamaha outboards don't have this problem! The tiny grit in the fuel just gets sucked through and burned up.
Wes
Renae said " No one--I think--honestly thinks we will be running gas outboards in 50 years."
Well Renae, at at 118 years of age, CERTAINLY not me!
TG
Quote from: Tim Gardner on October 10, 2019, 08:40:03 AM
Renae said " No one--I think--honestly thinks we will be running gas outboards in 50 years."
Well Renae, at at 118 years of age, CERTAINLY not me!
TG
I'll still be a spry 102, but running electric!
Well call me old school, but I enjoy tinkering with old gas engines too much to not make a hobby out of it when I retire in 30 years or so. Hopefully my duck boat at the time still has the old 2 stroke driving it that'll be 70+ years old. At the very least I hope there are still clubs around playing with these old engines much like the steam power shows around today. There's just not much more fun that seeing a bunch of steam tractors and old hit and miss gas engines running around. I go to at least one show a year. If you ever have a chance to attend the WMSTR in Rollag, MN it's one of the best and biggest.
https://rollag.com/
But I agree as far as new stuff goes, electricity is the way of the future and I'm all for it. I plan on my next commuter car being an EV's. Same goes for any other motor of regular use outside of the old stuff I have that I enjoy keeping running.
Tim and I would be celebrating the same birthday and, quite honestly, as fun as it would be to see what things will be like then, I have no desire to hang around that long.
It's funny, I was an objects conservator for 40 years, mostly furniture and decorative art, but 10% of my work was on historic functional objects, printing press, voting booths, music boxes, and other machines long since obsolete. I loved the work, preserving good designs and bad without judgement, and it put food on the table, but personally I choose current designs and modern materials that don't require the traditional skills I practiced to maintain. I love the look of well-preserved brightwork on a wooden boat as much as the next person, but I know what it takes and that's not how I want to spend my time.
I am, of course, always glad to hear of people who do want to save the old stuff, and keep it alive.
It's not a matter of distaste for tinkering with the old technology. I've rebuilt an old Chevy engine and restored and Allis Chalmers WD-45, and enjoyed myself in the process. It's more a lack of fondness for ending up on the rocks when I'd rather be sailing.
I had one of those 4 hp mercs. wouldn't idle worth spit. the only thing that worked was to take the carb apart and soak it in seafoam. it was still pretty iffy. I sold it for 650 bucks and bought a little 4 horse Johnson two stroke. the little johnson if a twin so its far smoother and quieter and most importantly it idles like a champ. I will never have a 4 stroke. the two stroke 80 np on my bass boat runs perfectly and its 30 years old. also the two strokes don't seem to mind ethanol in the gas. i thou
I just ordered an ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Remote version today. I was told the US distributor has one in stock, so should be here soon. I'll let you know how it goes with a Suncat once I've kicked the tires.
I'm anxious to hear how the Spirit 1.0 Remote works for you, of course!
Did the distributor (Mack Boring) have a dealer close enough to you to be useful? As long as the battery and remote are recently charged, and paired, they should sync via Bluetooth readily out of the box. Mine did when I first got it, but over the winter, when the batteries had discharged, they lost their pairing. The manual tells you how to do it. At first I didn't follow the instructions precisely, and they wouldn't pair. No problem once I did what I was told. The order that you make connections, turn things on, bring within receiving range, charge, etc. matters.
It's amazing - instructions always make sense once you know how to do something :-)
;D