When I put Sylvia away for the winter I decided to go through the running rigging in detail, measuring lengths, and getting pictures of everything. When I bought the boat a year ago pretty much everything but the traveler lines were stripped down. Halyards were run through the mast but both ends were just wrapped around the mast. The factory manual was little help. It took me a bit of research and trial and error over the course of the season to get it all setup right. I decided, to save myself future issues, and to help any eventual future owners, that I would put together an addendum for the factory manual to cover all these details. I also added some specifications that aren't readily available from factory documentation. I am posting this here to help other Eclipse owners new and old. I learned a couple of tricks that I believe aren't the factory rigging that have helped me alleviate some of the frustrations had early on in the season, particularly with the traveler lines jamming on the blocks, and a simple cure to prevent the jib sheet from hanging up around the mast hinge. I hope everyone finds this useful, and if you see any errors, omissions, or have other suggestions please let me know and I will edit as necessary.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eD6g6wO7O42zy6CP30UdaJvN1JA9weKF
Updated to show mast raising instructions and pre-launch checklist. If anyone has anything to add or comments I'm all for suggestions.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PAK5gunRswBET94mNC5z2O7ZhWRsz3as
Fantastic. Great job. It will no doubt help all of us. Thanks
That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for last spring when we picked up our barely-rigged SunCat...
Thanks, I am just in the process of ordering a new Genoa and have been thinking about rigging as well.
Good job! Nicely done.
Wow....really good stuff - thanks for posting.
I have a question that in no way diminishes all your great work. What is the reason why you have the cam cleat on the boom vang at the boom end rather than at the mast stub? One of my first cabin boats came from the PO rigged that way. While running off the wind I found I could not reach the control line at the boom. Now, of course, the Eclipse vang is set up to be part of the mast raising system so the tail is really long. Just wondering what other sailors do too. Thanks Al
Quote from: alsantini on November 18, 2018, 09:43:49 AM
I have a question that in no way diminishes all your great work. What is the reason why you have the cam cleat on the boom vang at the boom end rather than at the mast stub? One of my first cabin boats came from the PO rigged that way. While running off the wind I found I could not reach the control line at the boom. Now, of course, the Eclipse vang is set up to be part of the mast raising system so the tail is really long. Just wondering what other sailors do too. Thanks Al
Al, I tried putting the cleat at the mast. Two things lead me to the other way around. First, I found that I had to adjust the cleat angle on the block all the way up to allow the line to uncleat at that position. With the cleat at that angle it didn't work well for mast raising, and I didn't want to have to adjust it back and forth every outing.
Second, when the cleat is on the boom end the line is an easy reach from the cockpit, and the excess drops cleanly into the cabin. With the cleat at the mast I found it more difficult to reach up to get hold of the line.
I usually set the vang before bearing off, and if it needs adjustment while on course I just sheet in enough to reach it.
OK. I keep it at the mast end so that the excess line is in the cabin. Too many ropey things seem to capture my feet often. LOL
I am not sure what position my cleat is in but I do not re-set it each time I step the mast. When I am back in FL, end of Dec, I will check.
How about the rest of you? Where do you have the cam cleat for the boom vang. At the mast stub or at the boom?
I thought of another reason to keep it at the boom that Salty19 brought up on my question of setup for downwind sailing. The tail end can be tied off to the leeward shroud or looped on a midship cleat to act as a simple boom preventer. Haven't tried it yet, but it seams like a simple solution vs. rigging extra line for the task.
See modified first post with updated manual including mast raising and pre-launch checklist.
Well done, especially with the detailed photos!
Hi everyone and happy Easter
I'm a newbie to this site and have purchased an Eclipse recently and transported her home to the bottom of the world Tasmania .
I've read the Eclipse Rigging Manual and congratulate Slode for updating the manual, much needed and very well done providing accurate info on the boats dimensions Etc.
I've sailed the boat a couple of times and found its really needed to have some systems changed especially for me . Not very athletic these days ,the Eclipse is a downsize but will keep me sailing .
I don't want to have to go up the sharp end when sailing and have added an anchor winch which may be overkill but enables me to raise and lower the anchor from the safety of the cockpit.
I've also changed the jib cleats to extreme angle cleats and made the jib sheets a two to one purchase.
I'm grateful for the info from the author in regard to the jib sheets catching on the mast raising extrusion. Good job.
I've been trying to set up the reefing lines and think that the leech reefing line needs to pass around the boom before going to the back of the boom so that the sail snugs down to the boom as well as pulling aft .
But the luff reefing lines are a little harder . If you don't use the reefing horns then the reefing lines tend to pull the boom down to the deck.
I think the answer may require a boom up haul like the down haul to stabilise the boom position.
It's nice to reef from the cockpit. And look forward to comments from others re this.
Thanks for the info
Des
Is your Eclipse new? We might have the two most extreme latitude Eclipses in the world!
I would agree that the reefing setup on the Eclipse could use some work. It works and is simple, but takes a bit of effort to get the tack set on the hook and the clew tight. You mention lines pulling the boom down to the deck. Unless I have something wrong there are no reefing lines on the front end for the tack. The tack simply hooks in. There is a downhaul line but that doesn't pass through the reef tack, it's just for pulling the boom down to tension the luff, even with a full sail.
There should be a knurled nut below the boom that can be adjusted up the mast stub and will prevent the boom from dropping too far when the halyard is let loose, it's lowered all the way when taking things down to allow the boom and sail to drop below the hinge. But with the sail up it should be tightened a couple inches below the boom. In any case the halyard sets the boom height and the downhaul provides the luff tension. The nut is just there to limit boom drop when lowering the main, especially handy when anchored out to get the boom out of the way for entering & exiting the cabin. I have even used it to hold the front of the boom a couple feet higher than normal for head clearance.
I find standing in the companion way is the best place to get everything done for putting in a reef while out on the water. With the stopper nut set a couple inches below the boom, first make sure the boom vang is loose, center the boom, and drop the main halyard allowing the boom to rest on the gallows, let just enough halyard out to get the reef tack set on the hook. Next pull the clew reef line tight and cleat. Then pull up the reefed sail with the halyard. If the downhaul was left as is the boom will raise to the same point as it was. I agree that the clew line could use something to provide more down force on the leech. Wrapping it around the boom may cause too much friction, I have been thinking about installing a cheek block on the side of the boom to bring the line down then back.
I have also thought about running either a full single line system or a two line with both cleated at the side of the boom to allow reefing without having to step into the companionway. But I think I'll put another season in to iron out the details before making any modifications to the factory setup.
Thanks for the quick reply .
No the boat is a 2013 build ,maybe no 67 if I'm right.
And yes high latitudes your about 44 north and we are 42 south actually at the bottom of Tasmania, in Hobart .
You look like you may have good cruising grounds .
There is no knurled nut under the gooseneck just a long pin to slide in which is ok I guess .
The aft leech reefing line is tied around the boom just aft of where the reef cringle is on the sail, then the line heads for the pulley at the back of the boom and enters the boom goes along the boom and exits down to the deck and leads to a cleat near the companionway .
The luff end just goes up to the cringle and back down to a block on deck and leads aft to another cleat near the companionway but on the opposite side .
I find the reefing horns a bit of a fiddle if I'm sailing by myself .
I have used single line reefing on other boats but found that there is a lot of rope to pull in and it's slow.
The mainsail does set the boom height but my sail is stretched and needs recutting ,when hauled right to the top of the mast ,the boom only just clears the boom gallows .
When I got the boat the mast was way overhead ,I guess to lift the boom end higher but it wasn't pretty.
I like the fact that you have juggled blocks and ropes to change systems without needing extra hardware. So well done ,I can see a lot of thought has gone into your systems.
Cheers Des
Des. First off welcome. A great boat.... I have #49 and sail northern Illinois in the summer and west coast of Florida during the winter.
I think the original set-up, which I believe you have, could do with a bit of change. I found that the cam on the boom would slip as I sailed. I installed a bale on the port side of the boom aft of the reef cringle. I tie off the end of the reefing line to it. The line goes up the and through the cringle down to a turn block (same position as the bale). The line then turns and follows along the boom toward the mast. About 3 - 4 feet from the front of the boom I have a can cleat that holds the line with a figure of eight knot. The position of the cam cleat allows me to put one foot in the cabin, one foot in the cockpit, drop the sail until my red line shows up on the halyard. Catch the reef hook, pull up on the halyard to lock it. I then pull on the rear reefing line until the sail is tight and I am done. This one modification to the factory system has really worked well and I single hand most of the time up north. To me, the key is the position of the cam cleat forward on the starboard side of the boom since it allows me to set a reef without moving around a lot. I can reach the cam cleat, the hook and the halyard without moving and I can get it done quickly. The system puts lots of tension on the clew pulling it down and aft which greatly helps with sail shape when reefed. Sail On, Al
Hi Al, thanks for your reply . You have year round sailing I guess ,lucky you. Nice to have winter sun in Florida.
I think it's a great little boat as well very stiff and comfortable to sail.
Your system sounds good , but you must have away of holding up the boom,otherwise when you loosen the haliard the boom would drop ,even with the predetermined red mark in place.
Or am I missing something?
I think being able to adjust the gooseneck is a given in that it slides away when unrigging but if you could set it at a predetermined height when the sail is hoisted and have a Cunningham adjustment on the sail and do away with the down haul line ,then that would solve a lot of problems.
The Cunningham line would need a cringle placed in the sail about 150 to 200 up from the tack.
Back to the drawing board,
Cheers Des
Des,
I think a track stop may solve a lot of your concern
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/davis-round-sail-track-stop/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-JXe1-uLEPjqIeE_EB6vg5IQd7CpmhKy4eCsvLidzqwfpP8kHwoEcaAtMbEALw_wcB
If you set the nut so the middle of the gooseneck sits at the mast hinge point when resting on it, it should allow plenty of clearance for downhaul tensioning yet keep it high enough to make things easy for setting a reef and hoisting the sail back up with the halyard. If find if you let the gooseneck drop below the hinge point it tends to jamb when pulling it back up. I'll typically run all the sail slides and gooseneck up the mast and set this before launching to avoid any issues with getting things stuck at the hinge point when hoisting the sail.
Thanks Slode for that info ,I agree I think that's what I'm missing and I appreciate your mounting advice .
I ordered the slide today , haven't been able to source one in Australia.
Unfortunately American suppliers charge an arm and leg for freight ! But what the heck it's only money .
Best wishes Des
You can accomplish the same thing with a long (my boat came with a 3" long quick release ball end) clevis pin in the back bottom holes of the hinge slid through after raising the slides and gooseneck up above the hinge joint. That is how I stored my main. It makes getting the sail up much easier. Then you pull the pin out and tighten the downhaul to pull any horizontal wrinkles out of the main. Then slide the pin back in and it will keep the gooseneck and the boom up horizontal with the mast crutch on the gallows when you lower the sail or leave it out and the gooseneck will drop down below the hinge when you lower the sail.
I had half a dozen of those pins on my hobie cat and they made rigging the boat much easier. I hate the ronstan pins the Eclipse came with and put quick pins in the mast hinge as well.
YOU MUST REMOVE THIS PIN AND MAKE SURE ALL THE SLIDES ARE BELOW THE HINGE BEFORE PUTTING THE MAST DOWN!!! SAME IS TRUE WITH THE ABOVE RECOMMENDED SAIL STOP!!! The manual also has this highlighted.
Fair Winds,
Vectordirector
Thanks for your input Vector Director , just need some good weather to try things out .
Cheers Whisper