One of the things I wish I didn't have to do when rigging my boat to sail is putting the
Rudder Assy on. Has anybody figure a safe and foolproof way of securing the rudder for travel
Greg
I tie my tiller to the pushpit, centered amidship. this keeps the blade, in a down position, pointed in the direction of travel. Now, if I were to be towing over a hundred miles, I would consider removing the blade (one bolt). I have an IDA rudder on the original head stock.
TG
Hi Greg. I remove the rudder blade leaving the head stock (I think that is what it is called?). Never tried just letting it hang, but my guess is, it will really move around and might be damaged.
In my sequence, the first thing I do is put the rudder blade on. Then I accomplish all the things that need to be done while on the ground: release the two bungees that prevent the shrouds from hitting the boat, release the shroud cams. Then I am ready to jump on-board and go through the step the mast procedure.
If anyone travels with the rudder connected and down on the highway, I would be interested in hearing it. There is only a few inches clearance between the bottom of the blade and the ground. I put the blade on my foot and control the position to get the main bolt installed. Never measured it, but it cannot be more that 3-4 inches and I am not sure this is enough to travel down the road with. Plus, I have 13 inch tires giving me an additional 1.5 inches over the stock 10 tires. Questions and few answers. Sail On Al
When traveling short distances (<200 miles), I push the tiller hard to starboard and rest the tiller handle in the rear dock line cleat. I secure it in place with a bungie. With the blade raised, I tighten the blade nut as much as I can. Then with the blade handle in the "up" position, I secure the handle with a stiff bungie.
I figure with the nut tightened and the blade raising handle fully up and secured, it won't come loose and damage the rudder.
Ron
on my 16 i always left the rudder on with a tiller lock engaged. in 6 years no problems
I don't have much experience other than my 300+ mile trip home from MI. But I can concur with Ron. The PO had the rudder and tiller secured in the same manner and assured me that's how he had trailered for the 5 years he owned the boat. It made the trip just fine. It took a wrench to loosen the pivot bolt (a mallet on the lever would have worked). If I decide to continue this practice I will probably carry a wrench to tighten it before hitting the road, and vice-versa.
With the 10" tires my rudder is within 2" from the ground on a level grade. I would never attempt hauling it, or launching and retrieving with the rudder down!
Thanks for the input. I also have 10" tires and have little to no clearance. So If I understand this right, Ron. Pull Tiller hard to stb and secure with bungie to keep Rudder assy from moving around. With the blade up, you tighten the Rudder nut till there is no movement by the blade then bungee or secure the handle so it will no come loose and allowing rudder to drop.
That saves a little time.
I generally take rudder off (like above...1 bolt). More importantly, I found that if I push the tiller hard to port or starboard those heavy duty 18" twist ties from HD work really well and no chance of flying off like a bungee cord. Just tie to cleat and spin to lock.